Batanes
BATAN ISLAND
The terrain here is generally mountainous in the north around Mt. Iraya and in the southeast around Mt. Mahatao, forming a sort of hilly interior basin stretching to the western coast.
Mt. Iraya, a dormant volcano at 3,307ft (1,008m) can be climbed, but only during the height of the dry season and with the aid of a guide. The usual way starts at Basco. There are no clear trails through the dense rain forests that cover the slopes. For those who prefer not to climb to the peak, there are trails that lead part of the way up the slope and then around the volcano to its coastal side.
Usually hidden from view, it is said that the clouds form a smoke-ring around the peak when someone in Batanes dies. The many springs originating from Mt. Iraya are the island's major source of fresh water.
A partially well paved road from Basco to Imnajbu (the "j" is silent) in the southeast winds along the island's rocky cliffs, down to the beaches and rocky shores, and back up again. If one leaves early in the morning to avoid the midday sun, a hike around the island is the best way to take in all the views and meet the natives. Though this can be done in one day, at least one overnight stop is suggested.
Basco
The Philippine Airlines flight makes a wide approach to Basco. While seats on the right side of the plane offer a panoramic view of Mt. Iraya, seats on the left give a spectacular view along Batan's high cliff coast.
From the airport it's a short walk to the town proper where the clean streets are barely wide enough for 2 jeepneys to pass side by side. Luckily, there are only 4 jeepneys on the whole island. Children play in the quiet streets whose names no one can remember. Typhoons blew down all the street signs and no one ever bothered to replace them, since everyone knows where everyone else lives anyway.
Some traditional stone-and-cogon-grass homes can still be seen in Basco, but more and more stone dwellings are giving way to the more contemporary concrete-and-hollow-block house with wrought iron trim. Glass windows are still, however, a rarity.
Local cottage industries include plaiting ropes, weaving baskets and hats and making doormats. At Steve's Handicrafts such items can be bought or ordered. Boat building and the making of fish nets are also established in Basco.
The Sto. Dominican College has a student dormitory and operates a canteen where good meals, cakes and hot pandesal are available. The prices are reasonable for local fare, but a coke that would cost 3.75 pesos in most places, runs to 7.50 pesos in Batanes. Eggs imported from Luzon where they sell at 1.75 pesos, cost twice as much in Basco.
Other eating places in Basco include the small carinderia and bakery of Perpetua Domingo. Another bakery is Elcano's (19), near the hospital. Dividing the athletic field from the town plaza is a line of pastel blue plywood stalls selling snack foods, including local favorites made from bananas, rice, cassava and ube. For early risers (5:00-6:00), fresh milk is available by the glass at Sadu Bautista's place.
There is a market (5) in Basco on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from about 6:00-7:30, inside a small, roofless abandoned building facing the plaza. It's as much a social affair as the chance to sell surplus produce and imported items.
The provincial capitol building (13) with the Philippine Information Agency sits at the top of Basco's long town plaza. Many of the townspeople go to the garden-like plaza for a late afternoon promenade and to enjoy the pleasant breeze. The adjacent basketball court is also very busy at this time.
High up on the grazing slopes of Naidi Hills stand the striking solitary buildings that once housed the wireless station of the Bureau of Telecommunications, whose office is now in town below. Since these solid Bu-Tel buildings (16), reminiscent of mausoleums, were abandoned, locals now use them as livestock pens, and come in the late afternoon to let the animals out to graze.
From the Bu-Tel, one can enjoy a breathtaking view of the wide bay and the pier, the rich pasture and farm land, and the whole town of Basco below. The town church (14) seems to glow when it reflects the late afternoon sun.
Though there is no path, it is possible to follow the grassy slope down to the shore where a wrecked LST boat, a typhoon casualty, still lies imbedded in the sand.
Japanese tunnels from World War II are scattered throughout the Batanes, and there are also some on the Naidi hills. Beside the gravel road going to the barrio of San Joaquin on Batan's east coast, there are a couple of tunnels partially hidden from view by the overgrowth. One is passable, but only for a few meters. Mr. Bata of the Philippine Information Agency can be a very helpful guide.
At the top of the ridge, the path divides into two tracks: one leading down the slope to San Joaquin, and the other up to Tokon and the defunct PAGASA station on top of one of the highest points in Basco. This track follows the ridge of the hills, giving one simultaneous views of both sides of the island.
Mahatao
This picturesque town is about 7km from Basco. It has a particularly charming harbor. The Spanish-style church occupies a prominent location at the center of town. Many of the homes are built in rows on the face of the hill behind the plaza.
Ivana
Breaking up the coral and rock coast, the road to Ivana passes a few sandy beaches where swimming and snorkeling is possible. Just before Ivana is the barrio of San Vicente, a small cluster of traditional stone homes built close to the sea and partially protected by a concrete sea wall. A natural channel is cut so perfectly straight through the submerged rock offshore, that it looks man-made.
Ivana is a very photogenic town. Flowers and greenery seem to be everywhere. The windows frame potted plants and old lace curtains. Many homes sport the color scheme of pastel blue or green on whitewash found throughout the islands, which adds to their appeal.
At the far end of town, the church offers a view of Sabtang island directly across the channel. Below the church in Ivana is one of the few white-sand beaches on Batan. From here the boats depart for Sabtang. Sunsets seen from this part of the island are often more striking than those seen from Basco.
Songsong
Located just before Itbud, on one of the most vulnerable coasts in an area already subject to extremely harsh climatic conditions, Songsong, a sprinkle of roofless stone houses, is called by the locals "the disappearing town". Over many years the population suffered from the forces of nature that created hazards to life, property and crops. The frequent typhoons, hitting the whole of Batanes, and tidal waves were catastrophes particularly in Songsong, injuring people and even killing some. Therefore, more and more families moved to safer barrios until finally one year, there was no one left. But in the last year, 3 families have moved back to the ghost town prepared to take their chances with the weather.
Itbud
The further away one gets from the capital, the more relaxed and traditional the lifestyle. Itbud is the last stop on the jeepney route, though the road continues to Imnajbu. Almost all the homes are in the traditional style, built of large rocks and limestone to withstand the typhoons. Here one can see how the cogon roof is layered, up to one meter thick, and, like some farm plots, covered with rope net for added protection against the wind. Doors and windows are usually small and narrow, barred with a heavy length of timber.
A short distance before Imnajbu, the buildings of the abandoned US radio installation still stand. Nearby is the turnoff for the interior road leading back to Mahatao. But because this route zigzags through the hills rather than over them, it is not much shorter than the coastal road but less scenic. Seas off this part of the island are particularly rough.
More on Batanes:
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