Sulu Island
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JOLO ISLAND
Jolo
At first sight, the town of Jolo is more pleasant than most Philippine towns of equal size. This impression arises from the acoustic tranquillity of the place. Jolo is probably the only Philippine town where the predominant background noise is not motor tricycles. The reason: by municipal ordinance they are not allowed to operate. Instead, there are many pedicycles (pedal-powered tricycles).
However, the calmness of the place doesn't mean that it is also an equally peaceful place. Regularly there is trouble between soldiers and members of the MNLF, or between feuding clans that not only are fairly independent from the state authorities but also well armed.
After dark, there is practically no life on the streets of Jolo, and visitors to the town are certainly advised not to make an exception and go for a stroll after sunset. Many shops and even restaurants close well before dark, between 17:00 and 18:00, and the tourist should just stay in the hotel.
Cuisine-wise, Jolo is already more Malaysian than Filipino. It is no surprise that pork is not to be had. But beef and chicken are served in many small restaurants on barbecue sticks with a very fine thin curry sauce poured over the meat and rice. It's a Malaysian dish called 'sate'.
Twice a day, the quiet of the town is disturbed by low flying aircraft. The airport is just some 200 meters away from the town center, and PAL links Jolo to Zamboanga by jet.
Accommodation
JP's Inn - Airport Rd; rm 75-100
Helen's Lodge - Buyon St; rm 40-70
TAWI-TAWI ISLAND
Bongao
A minority group, the Badjaos or sea gypsies as they are referred to, live around the Tawi-Tawi islands. Originally, this people entered the Philippines about 2,500 years ago. Their life-style has always been and still is on boats or stilted houses over the water, and although some have settled as farmers, most fish and trade. A related group, the Balangingi Samal, have historically been (or are) pirates.
About the middle of the 16th century the Badjaos were claimed by the Sulu Sultan as subject people and many became Muslims; but until today, the Badjaos are more subject to their headmen than any outside authority, including the Philippine central government. There are attempts by the National Housing Authority to settle them and Christian missionaries try to convert them.
Ships from Jolo and Zamboanga normally arrive in the early morning at Bongao, the capital of Tawi-Tawi Province, and when approaching the town, one of the most picturesque island sceneries of the world unfolds before the eyes of the traveler. After that, the town of Bongao is rather disappointing. Not only does it lack beauty, it also lacks infrastructure. Electricity is available for just a few hours a day, and so is tap water. The only hotel in town is too expensive for what it offers. All goods are also more expensive here than in other parts of the Philippines. This includes daily needs of the traveler, like soap, soft drinks (tap water is not safe), meals in restaurants and individual transportation (by tricycle).
Continued
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