Art and Culture / Performing Arts
Of all the traditional performing arts in Thailand, the most famous is the masked dance drama known as Khon. In the old Ayutthaya, as well as in the early Bangkok period, Khon performances were limited to the Royal palace and sometimes went on for several nights.
Khon stories are derived from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Indian Ramayana, an epic account in lyrical verse of the triumph of good over evil. The hero is Phra Ram, whose consort Nang Sida is abducted by the wicked King Thotsakan of Longka; the lengthy drama recounts the ultimately successful efforts of Phra Ram and his brother Phra Lak, assisted by the clever monkey-god Hanuman, to rescue her.
All the characters in Khon performances wear ornate costumes, glittering with gold braid and jewels; many also wear magnificent papier-mache masks that reflect the personalities of their roles. The story is told largely through stylized gestures and postures, once considered so strenuous that in the old days all performers were men.
Today only excerpts from the full Khon drama are shown, sometimes at the National Theater but more often at several Thai-style restaurants catering to tourists. Performers now are both men and women.
Lakhon and Likay are popular derivatives of Khon, employing no masks but using similar costumes and movements to express emotions. The former is danced mostly by women. A special kind of Lakhon called Lakhon Chatri can be seen regularly at popular shrines, where troupes are hired to perform by suppliants. Likay, seen at many festivals and temple fairs, is a sort of burlesque combining social satire and low comedy.
Another form of traditional Thai theater is the shadow-play, now fairly rare except in the far South. The most popular version, still performed at southern festivals, is Nang Talung, in which the figures, made of cowhide, often have moveable parts and are manipulated with thin sticks.
All forms of theater in Thailand, as well as boxing matches, are accompanied by music, usually a traditional orchestra playing drums, cymbals, xylophones, flutes, and a three-stringed instrument known as So Sam Sai, which produces tunes of haunting poignancy.
National Theater
Na Phra Lan Rd next to the Nat. Museum
Tel 221-4885, 221-9838, 221-0171
Thai classical drama and performances by visiting ballet and theater companies are periodically staged here. Special exhibition shows of Thai classical dancing and music are held on the last Friday of each month at 17:30.
Thailand Cultural Center
Ratchadaphisek Road, Tel 245-7711 to 9
Theater performances both by Thai and foreign groups; the Thailand Cultural Center was opened in December 1987, celebrating the 60th birthday of King Bhumiphol Adulyadej. It is fully integrated for social, educational and cultural activities. The facilities include the Main Hall, a 2,000 seat auditorium fully equipped for stage presentations, concerts and international conferences; the Small Hall, a 500 seat multi-purpose auditorium integrated with a 1,000 seat amphitheater; and the Social Education and Exhibition Building which houses a cultural library, exhibition halls, a 200-seat lecture theater, meeting rooms, language laboratory, audiovisual rooms etc.
College of Dramatic Arts
near the National Theater
Tel 224-1391
Performances of Western visiting artists are also organized by the Bangkok branches of the cultural institutes of industrialized nations. For their addresses please see the listing at the end of the chapter Art & Culture.
A number of restaurants in Bangkok have dinner shows of traditional Thai performing arts. The emphasis, however, is on entertainment rather than on culture. The programs usually are a stew of theater, music and dance performances. Restaurants serving such programs are:
Baan Thai Restaurant
7 Soi 32, Sukhumvit Road
Tel 258-5403, 258-9517
Maneeya’s Lotus Room
Ploenchit Rd
Tel 252-6312, 251-0392
Chao Phaya Restaurant
Phra Pinklao Bridge, Arun Amarin Rd
Tel 474-2389
Piman Restaurant
46 Soi 49, Sukhumvit Road
Tel 268-7866, 258-7861
Ruen Thep
Silom Village Trade Center
Tel 233-9447, 234-4149
Sala Norasing
Soi 4 (Nana Tai), Sukhumvit Road
Tel 251-5797, 251-5464
Sala Rim Naam
Oriental Hotel, Charoen Nakhon Rd
Tel 437-6221, 437-3080
Suwannahong Restaurant
Si Ayutthaya Rd, Tel 245-4448, 245-3747
Tum Nak Thai Restaurant
131 Ratchadaphisek Rd
Tel 277-3828, 277-8855
Western Music Societies
Bangkok Combined Choirs
c/o International Church
Soi 19, Sukhumvit Road
Tel 252-6368, 252-5648
The group presents The Messiah each Christmas season.
Bangkok Music Society
c/o Armnad Khitapanna, Tel 258-7376, 258-7383;
Christian Bos, Tel 392-4783; Daphne Colwell, Tel 279-3537
The society organizes musical events throughout the year.
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