While not qualifying as one of the most beautiful cities of the globe, Bangkok nevertheless is one of the most pleasant. It’s neither a matter of the climate nor a matter of architecture. Actually, the climate is quite heavy much of the year, and aside from palaces and Wats, the architecture is pretty dull.
Therefore, it all comes down to the people. Bangkok is one of the most pleasant capitals of the world because it is the capital of Thailand. Bangkok’s charm stems from the social climate and the breath of tolerance that characterizes the country. In the way that Thailand is one of the most tolerant countries in the world, Bangkok is one of the most tolerant capitals. Historically, this is a consequence of the fact that Thais adhere to the most tolerant religion of the world: Buddhism.
But Thais, more than other Buddhist people, have built, on the basis of a tolerant religion, a tolerant social order. Conflict is considered bad style; the superior attitude is to smile and find a compromise. It’s an enlightened attitude which often makes enforcement obsolete. Where people settle their affairs among themselves without resorting to violence there is less need for authorities than in a culture where individuals believe they have to test constantly how far they can get by provoking conflict (as it is much more common, for example, among the Chinese who have had for centuries the reputation of being rather unruly).
Because Thais by and large get along with each other even when authorities don’t watch over the citizens?conduct, state authorities in Thailand involve themselves far less in the daily lives of ordinary Thai people than state authorities in most countries of the world. The result is a society which is not only more tolerant, but which grants it’s members freedom in a sense defined by Thomas Hobbes in his most famous statement: "Lyberties, they depend on the Silence of the Law." (Leviathan by Thomas Hobbes, quoted from the 1651 edition, reprinted 1909 by Oxford University Press, page 168)
Laws are a bad substitute for social harmony, and by and large Thailand is one of the most harmonious societies in the world - and certainly not because such harmony would have been imposed by a strong state. (Similarly, what are normally considered constitutional rights is nowhere as soundly established as in Great Britain - a country without a written constitution.)
Reason is a good reason to pursue peace and harmony: "The Right of Nature, which Writers commonly call Jus Naturale, is the Liberty each man hath, to use his own power, as he will himselfe, for the preservation of his own Nature; that is to say, of his own Life; and consequently of doing any thing, which in his own Judgement, and Reason, he shall conceive to be the aptest means thereunto. And consequently it is a percept, or general rule of Reason, That every man, ought to endeavor Peace, as farre as he has hope of obtaining it." (Leviathan, quoted from the same edition as above, pages 99, 100)
But for Buddhists, to live in peace is not just a matter of reason but of spiritual salvation.
Thailand has it’s modern face. The state is structured according to Western models, written laws have been drafted according to European examples, and the law enforcement agencies and the court system very much resemble those of any Western industrialized nation. Nevertheless, the old ways of living together in harmony still continue. To find a compromise between diverging interests Thais probably need the mediation of the state or courts of justice less often than do Westerners. The traditional attitude seems to be that laws are not enforced for their own sake. Much rather the sentiment seems to be that the law is brought in only when a mutually beneficial settlement cannot be achieved otherwise.
It’s a famous Thai approach to see ‘no problem when all participants in social interactions are content with the way things are going, even if the way things are going is not exactly how it was envisioned by statutes and codes.
This typically Thai attitude is evident in many aspects of social life. The one probably cited most often is prostitution. By the books, prostitution is illegal in Thailand; the Thai government certainly does not encourage prostitution, neither for the local market nor for foreign visitors. The question is what the government, and more so what a Thai government can do about it. To demand that males and females show marriage certificates when they check in a hotel? To close down motels? To send spies to peek through keyholes of hotel room doors? To close bars and coffee shops because, sure, that’s where prostitutes and customers often meet?
All of this would be very un-Thai. As long as there is no complainant, Thais may wonder where’s the problem. It’s very much Thai tradition to believe that what concerns a person or two themselves is basically their own business - in the best sense of Mill and Western liberalism. And in this context, one could even wonder how lenient Thai society would be concerning the use of drugs by adults who have reached the age of consent if there wouldn’t be considerable international pressure to outlaw drugs. Tracing back the history of Thai drug laws one cannot help having the impression that the complainant in the case of drug abuse is not any offended Thai party but the US which has a global anti-drugs policy.
The leniency of Thai society is evident in many aspects of daily life. In Thailand and in Bangkok, it’s to live and to let live, based on the believe that when there is harmony, everything’s alright. And while Bangkok certainly has it’s less harmonious sides, while the city has it’s share of crime and conflict, to live among Thais still can be a marvelous experience of getting along well. Well - for foreigners who are willing to live in the same manner.
Certainly, early foreign visitors, especially Europeans, were not quite up to the civilized ways Thais get along with each others. In the 17th century when King Narai took the initiative to forge friendly ties with a number of European powers, the French brought in some 300 craftsman and 600 soldiers. Especially the soldiers, encamped in Bangkok, took Thai politeness and Thai smiles as weakness and treated their hosts roughly, not only by Thai but even by European standards.
The French soldiers became very unpopular in the second half of the 17th century and were finally sent home. What they left behind was a bad reputation. Thais thereafter were rather suspicious of the white men whom they all called farang, the abbreviation of farangse which is nothing but a Thai pronunciation of the term the French use for themselves, Français.
Not that some of the foreigners now visiting or living in Thailand would behave much better. Thai society still doesn’t discipline them as long as there is no legal complaint. Thais smile and try to make the best out of the situation. They may think that Westerners have bad manners, far too conflict-oriented, but they keep that judgement to themselves. Thais are among the best hosts one could find in the world - and therefore it’s no accident that Thailand is, for many decades, the most popular tourist destination in Asia.
Visitors who are not familiar with Thai ways, and who will offend Thais more than Thais could offend foreigners, will still feel comfortable in the country. But those who choose to live in the country and adopt Thai ways will inevitably be convinced that they have found the most suitable society for themselves.
Thais by and large are masters in the skill to live harmoniously, and it must be noted here, that again, it’s no accident that the country is the only one in Asia which has never been colonized by an European power; and furthermore, in all of Southeast and East Asia, only Thailand managed to get through World War II largely unharmed, first pleasing the Japanese, and when it became obvious that the Japanese would be defeated, pleasing the Allies. Thailand, indeed, can be extremely accommodating.
The allure of Bangkok, despite the city’s bad traffic congestions, despite the city’s air pollution, can only be explained by explaining the tolerance and the charm of Thailand.
Nevertheless, even as rather practical considerations don’t capture Bangkok’s advantages as far as the social climate is concerned, the metropolis scores well when compared with other capitals on a purely practical scale.
Bangkok is one of the safest capital cities of Third World countries. While there are, of course, scams designed to victimize foreign visitors who are considered rich, it is generally no problem to walk any street at night. Robbery is not a pressing problem if compared to any American or African city, though in quiet Western Europe, the safety situation may still be better.
Furthermore, Bangkok is a cheap city while at the same time providing excellent standards. That goes for food just as well as for accommodation - and in both cases for the temporary visitor as well as for the foreign resident (for details, please refer to the chapters Accommodation and Cuisine).
Bangkok also offers excellent business opportunities, especially for anyone who intends to export (for details please see the chapters Business & Employment and Shopping).
