Central Thailand / Ayutthaya
Wat Ratburana
Wat Ratburana is opposite the Mahathat temple and should be considered its twin. It is the most important temple built by King Boromaraja II (reigned 1424-1448), the seventh Ayutthayan king, at his brother’s cremation site. During its restoration in 1958, many ancient valuables were found, including royal regalia made of gold and jewels, rare and antique jewel and gold pieces of superb craftsmanship, as well as golden Buddha images.
Chedi Phu Khao Thong
This Chedi, usually called the "Golden Mount Pagoda", is some 80m (262ft) high and is on Ayutthaya’s northern outskirts. Purportedly, this pagoda was built in Mon (Burmese) style by King Bhueng Noreng of Burma to commemorate the Burmese 1569 invasion of Ayutthaya. When Ayutthaya’s independence was restored by King Naresuan in 1584, the pagoda was remodelled in Thai style. In 1956, the government placed a golden ball, weighting 2.5kg (6lbs), on top of the pagoda to celebrate the Buddhist religion’s 2,500th anniversary.
Wat Yai Chai Mongkol
The Wat, also called "Chao Phaya Thai Temple", is just a short distance outside the walled Ayutthaya. It was built for meditation by King Ramatibodi, the first ruler of Ayutthaya, in 1357. In 1592, after King Naresuan defeated the Burmese Crown Prince in a single-handed duel on elephants, he constructed the temple’s large Chedi to match the high pagoda Phu Khao Thong which had purportedly been built by the Burmese. The ruins of the massive pagoda are visible from a far distance.
Wat Panan Choeng
Wat Panan Choeng, a river bank temple, was built in 1324, 26 years before Ayutthaya became the capital of the rising Siamese kingdom. A golden seated Buddha, 19m (62ft) high, is worshipped by people throughout the country.
Wat Suwan Daram
Wat Suwan Daram is a Royal temple of the Chakri Dynasty that meanwhile reigns for more than 200 years. The original structure, dating back to the Ayutthaya period, has been beautifully restored. Delicately carved columns support the roof. Inside walls are decorated with brilliantly colored frescoes.
Chandra Kasem Palace
Chandra Kasem Palace was built during the reign of King Maha Tammaraja, the 17th Ayutthayan monarch, as residence for his son, Prince Naresuan. While Maha Tammaraja was installed as king by the Burmese only after aiding them to invade Ayutthaya in 1569, King Naresuan not only re-established the independence of Siam but also conquered an area considerably larger than the territory of present day Thailand, encompassing today’s Laos and Cambodia as well as parts of what is now Burma and Malaysia. Like other ruins, the palace was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767 and left unrestored for a long time. King Mongkut (Rama IV, reigned 1851-1868) of the present Chakri Dynasty ordered the reconstruction of this palace and used it as a residence during his occasional visits to Ayutthaya.
Today, the palace is a museum, open every day except Monday and Tuesday from 9:00 to 16:00.
The Elephant Kraal
The kraal, locally called "Paniad", was used in ancient times for captured wild elephants. It is a spacious enclosure made of massive teak logs. The kraal was used for the last time in May 1903, during King Chulalongkorn’s reign, for a demonstration before royal guests.
Khun Phaen House
Khun Phaen’s Thai-style house near Vihara Phra Mongkol Bopitr conforms to descriptions in a popular Thai literary work.
Transportation
Bangkok - Ayutthaya
All trains leaving Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station for northern and northeastern destinations (except diesel rail cars to Phitsanulok, Khon Kaen and Surin) stop at Ayutthaya, 18 all in all. Departures in Bangkok are at 6:15 (arr 7:32), 6:40 (arr 8:03), 6:50 (arr 8:14), 7:05 (arr 8:40), 7:15 (arr 8:58), 8:30 (arr 10:10), 15:00 (arr 16:20), 15:25 (arr 16:59), 18:00 (arr 19:24), 18:45 (arr 20:07), 19:00 (arr 20:23), 19:40 (arr 21:00), 20:00 (arr 21:21), 20:30 (arr 21:54), 21:00 (arr 22:24), 22:00 (arr 23:23), 22:45 (arr 0:08) and 23:25 (arr 0:56). Fare (excluding surcharges for rapid or express trains and aircon) is 15 Baht for 3rd class, 31 Baht for 2nd class and 60 Baht for 1st class. The rail distance is 71km.
Buses from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal on Phahonyothin Road; 74km, non-aircon 17 Baht, 5:00 and every 10min until 19:00. Aircon buses (Tel 279-4484 to 7) leave every hour 6:45-18:45 and cost 25 Baht.
Ayutthaya - Bangkok
All trains for Bangkok from northern or northeastern destinations (except diesel rail cars to Phitsanulok, Khon Kaen and Surin) stop at Ayutthaya, 18 all in all. Departures in Ayutthaya are at 1:18 (arr 3:00), 2:04 (arr 3:30), 3:01 (arr 4:25), 3:15 (arr 4:35), 3:39 (arr 5:00), 3:56 (arr 5:20), 4:08 (arr 5:30), 4:40 (arr 6:00), 5:00 (arr 6:25), 7:00 (arr 8:25), 9:05 (arr 10:25), 10:25 (arr 12:00), 13:01 (arr 14:55), 15:59 (arr 17:25), 16:16 (arr 17:50), 17:16 (arr 18:40), 18:04 (arr 19:40) and 18:41 (arr 20:05). For fares and distance see entries under the opposite direction.
By Boat
There are no public boats between Bangkok and Ayutthaya. However, the Oriental Hotel organizes a one-day excursion to Ayutthaya and Bang Pa-In, departing in Bangkok daily at 8:00. Tourists can either go by the Oriental Queen river cruiser and return by aircon coach, or the other way around. Tickets, including a buffet lunch, cost 850 Baht. For further information one may call the Oriental Hotel, Oriental Lane, Charoen Krung Road (Tel 236-0400 to 9) or contact any travel agent.
A similar tour is available on the Ayutthaya Princess which departs daily at 8:00 at the Shangri-La Hotel. Reservation at the office of the Ayutthaya Princess Company, Kian Kwan Building, 140 Wireless Road, Tel 255-9200 to 4.
In Ayutthaya
Passenger pickups (songthaews) run from the railway station into town. The fare is 5 Baht. Hiring a passenger pickup within Ayutthaya costs 300 to 400 Baht per day.
To Bang Pa-In
For traveling between Ayutthaya and Bang Pa-In, passenger pickups (songthaews) regularly leave from Chao Prom Market, Chao Prom Road, from 6:30. Fare is 30 Baht. The trip takes 50min.
Possible Tours
One-day trip
The following is a tour to Ayutthaya and Bang Pa-In (see below) suggested by the Tourism Authority of Thailand. It’s too full a schedule for this author’s taste, and aside from that it provides for arrival at Bang Pa-In only at 14:50 in spite of the fact that entrance to the palace compound is only permitted until 15:00.
6:30 - Departure by train from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station, Rama IV Road
8:00 - Arrival at Ayutthaya and visits at:
Vihara Phra Mongkol Bopitr
Ancient Palace
Wat Na Phramane
Chao Sam Phaya National Museum
Wat Phra Mahathat
Wat Ratburana
12:00 - Lunch at Hua Raw market
12:30 - Visit Wat Suwan Daram
13:15 - Visit Wat Panan Choeng
14:00 - Departure for Bang Pa-In by passenger pickup from Chao Phrom market
14:50 - Arrival at Bang Pa-In, visit at:
Bang Pa-In Summer Palace
Wat Nivet Thamaprawat
17:30 - Departure for Bangkok by bus.
Chao Sam Phaya National Museum is open every day except Monday and Tuesday, 9:00-16:00; Bang Pa-In Summer Palace is open every day 8:30-12:00 and 13:00-15:00.
Two-day trip
This is again a recommendation by the Tourism Authority of Thailand.
1st day
7:00 - Departure from Bangkok by bus from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal at Phahonyothin Road
8:00 - Arrival at Bang Pa-In, visit to
Wat Nivet Thamaprawat
Bang Pa-In Summer Palace
10:30 - Departure for Wat Panan Choeng by boat, boat fare is about 300 Baht (10 seats per boat).
12:00 - Arrival at Wat Panan Choeng
13:00 - Departure for Chao Sam Phaya National Museum
15:30 - Departure for Wat Suwan Daram
2nd day
8:00 - In Ayutthaya, visit of:
Ancient Palace
Wat Mahathat
Wat Ratburana
Wat Na Phramane
Vihara Phra Mongkol Bopitr
Khun Phaen House
12:00 - Lunch in the area; relaxation at Phra Ram Park
14:30 - Departure for Chandra Kasem National Museum
16:00 - Departure for Bangkok
17:30 - Arrival at Bangkok
Tourists who have more time and want to continue their journey to the north and the northeast can take the train directly from Ayutthaya.
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