Central Thailand

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Central Thailand / Suphanburi

Suphanburi, some 169km (106mi) from Bangkok, is one of the oldest towns on Thai territory. It was founded in the Dvaravati period, ranging from the 6th to the 10th century. The Dvaravati state, either a kingdom or a selection of rather independent principalities, was most probably established by Mons rather than Thais as Thais at that time hadn’t migrated in large numbers from their traditional homeland of what is today Yunnan Province in southern China.

Building of Suphanburi was started between 877 and 882 on the left bank of Tha Jeen River. A former, though not its first name, was Phanchum Buri. After Prince Katae (half Thai, half Burmese) was crowned as king of the Suphanburi area, he had the town moved to the right bank of Tha Jeen River, constructed Wat Sanam Chai and restored Wat Pa Leylai.

He personally persuaded 2,000 officials to become monks. The name of the town was then changed to Song Phan Buri (city of two thousands). King U Thong (the one who also had his capital moved from U Thong to Ayutthaya in 1350 and there became King Ramatibodi) moved the town to the west of Tha Jeen River. King Khun Luang Pha Ngua changed the name of the town to Suphanburi.

Suphanburi's location east of Ayutthaya predisposed it for a military history. Whenever the Burmese invaded Thai territory, they stopped by the "city of 2000", burning it and considerably lowering the figure of its population. Only in the current Rattanakosin (Bangkok) period of Thai history was the Suphanburi community allowed to consolidate itself at its current location on the east bank of Tha Jeen River (Suphan River).

Suphanburi Province has an area of 5,358sqkm (2,068sqmi) and is divided into the 9 districts Muang (the town of Suphanburi), Doembang Nangbuat, Bang Pla Ma, Si Prachan, Song Phi Nong, Sam Chuk, U Thong, Don Chedi, Dan Chang and the Nong Yarai sub-district.

Accommodation

Di Rak; 571/1 Ngo Nen Kaeo Rd, Tel 52-1513

35 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-200 (f, ac)

Hotel 99; 189/1-25 Prachathipatai Rd

Tel 52-1177, 52-1411

28 rooms, sgl/dbl 70-150 (f)

King Pho Sai; 678 Kho Nen Kaeo Rd

Tel 52-2412, 52-1259

80 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-220 (f, ac)

K.A.T. ; 533 Phra Phanwasa Rd

Tel 52-1639, 52-1619

57 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-200 (f, ac)

Phatchara; 10 Ngo Nang Soi Fa Rd, Tel 52-1637

50 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-200 (f, ac)

331-6 Kho Phra Phanwasa Rd, Tel 52-2036

39 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-200 (f, ac)

Si Suphan; 1179-80 Khun Krai Rd

Tel 51-1122, 51-1902

47 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-200 (f, ac)

Suk San; 113 Nang Phim Rd, Tel 52-1668

64 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-200 (f, ac)

Sulak; 577-8 Phlai Phet Rd, Tel 51-1576

20 rooms, sgl/dbl 80-120 (f)

Wanchai; 309-10 Phra Phanwasa Rd, Tel 51-1056

15 rooms, sgl/dbl 80-120 (f)

Places of Interest

City Pillar (Lak Muang) Shrine

This shrine is on the west bank of Suphan River (Tha Jeen River), 0.5km (0.3mi) from the bridge. It was originally of typical wooden Thai design housing two Vishnu god statues carved out of green stone. The current structure is in Chinese pavilion design. The Chao Phaw Lak Muang Shrine is highly revered by the locals.

This is a very old monastery 2km (1.25mi) from the west bank of Suphan River. It is generally just called ‘Wat Pa?by the locals. The Vihara houses a Buddha image named Luang Phaw To. The image was formerly in the posture of preaching the first sermon but was changed to the present jungle life posture when it was renovated. Temple fairs are held in the 5th and 12th lunar months every year.

Wat Sanam Chai

This abandoned monastery is at Sanam Chai, 1km (0.6mi) from the bank of the Suphan River to the east. Only ruins of the northern side of a large pagoda remain. It is estimated that its height was 70m to 80m (230ft to 262ft). Early in 1962 the Fine Arts Department attempted to reconstruct the pagoda. However, a search for missing parts of the building was unsuccessful, probably because they might have been taken away by smugglers many years ago. Some human relics were found and it was assumed that they belonged to warriors who died on the battlefield in ancient times, so the name "Unknown Warrior Chedi" was given to this pagoda.

This monastery is near Rua Yai on the bank of the Suphan River about 250m from the bridge crossing the river. It is locally called Wat Phrathat and is over 600 years old . The main attraction is a large Prang (Khmer-style pagoda) housing Buddha relics. It was built either during the reign of King Ramatibodi I (1350-1369) or the reign of King Ramatibodi II (1424-1448).

Wat Phra Roop is on the west bank of the Tha Jeen (Suphan) River opposite the Suphanburi provincial market. It is a very old monastery built in the late Ramatibodi I reign (1350-1369). Ramatibodi was the King of U Thong who had established his capital at Ayutthaya and thereby initiated the Ayutthaya period of Thai history. As the early Ayutthaya realm encompassed only central Thailand, it is here were the largest number of remains from the early Ayutthaya period are found. The main attractions at Wat Phra Roop are a reclining Buddha called Nen Kaeo by the locals and a Buddha footprint on wood. It’s the only one of its kind in Thailand, probably even all of the world. (Popular Buddhism assumes that Buddha had traveled the world several times after his death. During these travels he is thought to have left footprints of human shape but often much larger in size. According to more intellectual Buddhist interpretation, the Buddha had entered Nirvana upon his earthly death and thereby escaped the world completely and forever.)

Wat Suwannaphum or Wat Mai as the locals call the monastery is opposite the Sala Klang. The main attraction is the Pun Punnasiri Museum which exhibits artifacts and archaeological materials such as bowls and cups, vases, Buddha images of various periods, clocks and weapons.

This monument is 31km (19mi) northwest from the town of Suphanburi. The pagoda was constructed by King Naresuan to commemorate his victory against the Burmese Crown Prince in a duel on elephants. For centuries the site of this monument had been forgotten. It was found in ruins in 1913 after an organized search of several years. A new pagoda was built in 1952 to cover the remains of the original one. A cast statue of King Naresuan (reigned 1590-1605) mounting the elephant’s neck was placed in front of the pagoda. A fair celebrating the monument for seven days and seven nights begins each year on the 25th of January (Royal Thai Armed Forces Day). The celebrations include historic shows, folk entertainment and shops selling all kinds of merchandise and services.

The Four Sacred Ponds

The four ponds named Sa Kaeo, Sa Kha, Sa Yomana and Sa Ket are near the Tha Wa River 14km (9mi) from the town of Suphanburi. They are assumed to provide sacred water ever since the prosperous U Thong era; water from these four ponds has been used for various coronation ceremonies.

This monastery, built in the present Rattanakosin (Bangkok) era, is several kilometers south of Suphanburi on the bank of Klong Phaya Banlue. It houses the largest metal cast Buddha image of the world called Phra Puttha Khodom which has a lap width of 10m (33ft) and a height of 26m (85ft). There are various structures reminding of the history of Buddhism, such as replicas of the Three Season Palace of Prince Sitthattha, of the places of Gaining Enlightenment and Preaching of the First Buddhist Sermon, as well as of Nivarna (passing away stage).

At the reservation, some 15km (10mi) from the town of Suphanburi, just a limited number of birds can be viewed during the day. In the early evenings the number of birds swells enormously. Among them are open-billed storks, storks, cormorants, painted storks, herons, night herons and white ibises.

Bangkok - Suphanburi

Buses from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal on Phahonyothin Road; 155km, non-aircon 47 Baht, 6:00 and every 40min until 17:20, 18:00, 19:00, 20:00; aircon 60 Baht, 6;05, 7:05, 7;45, 8:25, 9:05, 9:45, 10:25, 11:05, 11:45, 12:25, 13:05, 13:45, 14:25, 15:05, 15:45, 16:25, 17:05, 17:45, 18:25, 19:05, 19:55, 21:05