Central Thailand

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Central Thailand / Lopburi

Lopburi is an interesting town, 153km (96mi) north of Bangkok, which has been important in various periods of history reaching back roughly 1000 years. It was first an important Khmer town (the Khmers ruled over much what is today Thai territory for the first two centuries of the millennium). When the Khmer influence waned in what is today northern and central Thailand, Lopburi became rather independent and ruled over a territory reaching from the city to the shores of the Gulf of Thailand. The realm was known as the Kingdom of Lavo, still a Khmer state. It remained in existence until the end of the 13th century when the Thais, who had already migrated in large numbers from the north and had settled down in what is today Thai territory, fought against the Khmers and declared their independence as the Kingdom of Sukhothai. Since then Lopburi has been ruled by Thais.

Many monuments in Khmer style were constructed in Lopburi, during Khmer rule and even later, and much of them can still be seen today.

In 1664, King Narai, one of the most important kings in the history of Ayutthaya, made Lopburi the second capital of the realm and resided there for much of his lifetime. Many structures were built with the help of French architects. Therefore, the architectural style of Lopburi in the reign of King Narai was half Thai and half Western as is evident in structures like the Royal Palace or the Royal Reception House.

King Narai brought Western technology into use in the observatory and by laying terra-cotta pipes to supply water to the palace.

Apart from this, King Narai was the first Thai monarch to establish diplomatic relations with European powers, especially France, and introduced a friendly policy towards foreigners, especially Europeans (though this policy was abandoned by his successors).

Lopburi was not much destroyed by the Burmese army that completely burned down Ayutthaya in 1767. Therefore, it’s probably a better place to see Siamese architecture of the Ayutthaya period than Ayutthaya itself.

Accommodation

Amonsuk; 80/15 Mu 3, Na Phrakan, Tel 41-1065

19 rooms, sgl/dbl 80-100 (f)

Asia Lopburi; 1/7-8 Surasak Rd, Tel 41-1892

111 rooms, sgl/dbl 120-280 (f, ac)

Chulathip; 17-8 Na Phrakan Rd, Tel 41-1672

12 rooms, sgl/dbl 60 (f)

Holiday Hotel; 3 Soi Suriyothai 2, Narai Maharat Rd

Tel 41-1343, 41-3379; 99 rooms, sgl/dbl 200 (ac); 5 Bungalows 200 (ac)

Mandarin; 44 Mu 4, Phahonyothin Rd

Tel 41-2949, 41-2969

36 rooms, sgl/dbl 150-300 (ac)

Muang Thon; 1/5-7 Prang Sam Yod Rd, Tel 41-1036

37 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-200 (f, ac)

Nett Hotel; 17/1-2 Ratchadamnoen Rd, Soi 2

Tel 41-1738; 40 rooms, sgl/dbl 90-200 (f, ac)

Piman; 51/40 Soi Ek-Kathod, Horathibadi Rd

Tel 41-2507, 41-2153, 41-2133

45 rooms, sgl/dbl 150-250 (f, ac)

Si Inthra; 3-5 Na Phrakan Rd, Tel 41-1261, 41-2055

24 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-180 (f, ac)

Thai Ari; 54-5 Wijayen Rd, Tel 41-1468

12 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-100 (f)

Thai Pe; 24/6-7 Surasongkhram Rd

Tel 41-1524, 41-1661

104 rooms, sgl/dbl 140-300 (f, ac)

Wibunsi; 388 Narai Maharat Rd, Tel 41-1009

38 rooms, 18 bungalows 100-220 (f, ac)

Places of Interest

Narai Rajanivet Palace

The palace in the center of the town between Ratchadamnoen Rd and Pratoo Chai Rd not far from the railway station was built by King Narai of Ayutthaya and took 12 years for completion (1665-1677). Most of the structures on the palace grounds are of King Narai’s period. The whole compound has been declared as National Museum of Lopburi. Every pavilion in the royal palace compound has an interesting history.

They are the twelve treasure houses, built by King Narai for storing the royal treasures as well as goods to sell to foreign merchants.

The pavilion was built as a royal residence of King Narai in 1665. Later it was used as an audience hall as King Narai had moved his residence to the Suttha Sawan pavilion. The building was constructed in pure Thai style, thus indicating that no French architects had any share in building it. The building was restored by King Mongkut in 1863 and is now used as a hall for displaying archaeological and art objects. Many stone Buddha images of the Lopburi period are kept in the building.

This is a three-story brick building of later date, constructed by King Mongkut (Rama IV, reigned 1851-1868) as his residence when he stayed at Lopburi during the renovation of the palace. Connected with the pavilion are three other two-story buildings called Suttha Vinitchai Pavilion, Chaisastrakorn Pavilion and Aksonsastrakom. All three buildings are now used as offices of the Lopburi National Museum.

Dusit Sawan Thanya Maha Prasat Hall

King Narai had this building constructed to be used as an audience hall for high-ranking foreign visitors and ambassador. He probably received Chevalier de Chaumont, Louis XlV’s representative, in this hall. The building was constructed in a mixed architectural style. This is evident by the shape of the doors and windows (square shaped in Thai style, and dome shaped in Western style). No roof structure can be seen at present, but it is believed that the building was covered with a multi-tiered roof with a tall pointed spire which is the typical roofing style of many Mondops in Bangkok.

This pavilion was built by King Narai as his residence and it was in this building that the king died July 11, 1688, virtually a captive of his leading general who later became King Petraja. Today only ruins of this pavilion can be seen, as well as some surrounding fountains. It is recorded that the building stood in a beautiful garden.

Phra Chao Hao Building

The building in the south of the outer section of the place was built by King Narai probably as a private audience hall.

The hall, constructed by King Narai to entertain important foreign visitors, has ponds to the west, north and south. In front of the Banquet Hall stands a brick platform which is presumed to be the remaining part of a theater in which the guests were entertained after dinner.

The reservoir was constructed by King Narai to store water which came through terra-cotta pipes from Tale Chupsorn, a large fresh water lake which supplied drinking water to the inhabitants of Lopburi.

They are close to the wall and separate the outer section of the palace from the middle section.

Other Places of Interest

Phra Prang Sam Yot

Once a Hindu Shrine, this is the landmark of Lopburi. As it is only some 200m (ca. 200yds) from the railway station, it’s a place often visited first by tourists arriving by train. The shrine was constructed in Lopburi style from laterite (a reddish ferruginous soil formed in tropical regions by the decomposition of the underlying rocks) and sandstone and decorated with stucco. The adjoining Prangs (Khmer-style pagodas) signify the Hindu Trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. In the reign of King Narai, the shrine was converted into a Buddhist temple. Some Buddhist designs can still be seen on it.

This Brahma shrine lying opposite Phra Prang Sam Yot consists of two parts. The old part dates back to the Khmer period and today is just a mound. The new part consists of a building constructed in 1951 containing a four-armed deity figure fixed with a Buddha’s head which is now an object of worship. One of the most attractive sights for the tourists visiting San Phra Karn is the great number of tame monkeys which feed themselves on food offered to the deity by worshippers.

This charming little Khmer ruin in the market place on Wijayen Rd near Narai Ratchanivet Palace originally also was a Hindu shrine but much smaller than Phra Prang Sam Yot. The Indian influence is obvious in its structure.

Wat Phra Sri Mahathat is behind the railway station and of considerable historical and archaeological significance. It was probably founded in the 12th century when the Khmers still governed Lopburi. Many restorations had been done in the Ayutthaya period. What can still be seen are the ruins of numerous Prangs and Chedis which were built in both Sukhothai and Ayutthaya styles, with Khmer influence..

Wijayen House was constructed by King Narai as a residence for Chevalier de Chaumont, the first French ambassador to Thailand send by King Louis XIV. Later the place was occupied by Chao Phaya Wijayen (Constantine Phaulkon) until he was executed for treason by King Petraja who succeeded King Narai. There are many ruined buildings to be seen in the compound: one which served as a Roman Catholic chapel, the residence of the ambassador and residences for members of his mission. Ruins of water tanks made of bricks well as fountains are also on the compound.

The Wat is about 3km (2mi) east of the town of Lopburi. It was a church of the Jesuits, built during the reign of King Narai. Only a brick wall of a high tower behind the church remains.

Wat Sao Thong Thong is to the north of the Royal Palace. The Vihara and the main Buddha image are from the early Ayutthaya period. Later, King Narai restored this monastery and changed the windows of the Vihara into western style.

Originating probably in the 15th century B.C., this shrine consists of three brick Prangs constructed without mortar. Unlike what is the case with later Khmer Prangs, there are no corridors in between the three towers. The structure is regarded as the oldest monument of Lopburi and has been restored many times.

At this ancient monastery on the bank of Bang Kharm River, the Phra Sri Ariya image is kept. Of interest is the Vihara, decorated with stucco in various motifs, among them those depicting Buddha’s life and his first sermon. The designs are regarded as masterpieces of Thai sculpture.

The monastery was originally called Wat Ko Kaeo because it was on a small island (Ko being the Thai word for island). The Chedi Luang Phor Saeng, the Ubosot, the Vihara and the large Buddha image along the river are interesting sights.

This shrine commemorates the achievements of King Narai who made Lopburi the second capital of Siam and a prosperous city.

Transportation

Bangkok - Lopburi

Trains from Bangkok to the three northern destinations Phitsanulok, Den Chai and Chiang Mai which stop at Lopburi depart from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station at 6:40 (arr 9:03), 7:05 (arr 9:57), 8:30 (arr 11:33), 15:00 (arr 17:28), 18:00 (arr 20:24), 20:00 (arr 22:22) and 22:00 (arr 0:26). Fare (excluding surcharges for rapid or express trains and aircon) is 28 Baht for 3rd class, 57 Baht for 2nd class and 111 Baht for 1st class. The rail distance is 133km.

Buses from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal on Phahonyothin Road; 153km, non-aircon 32 Baht, 5:00 and every 15min until 20:30; aircon 60 Baht, 5:00 and every 20min until 20:30

Trains from the three northern destinations Chiang Mai, Den Chai and Phitsanulok to Bangkok stop in Lopburi at 2:02 (arrival in Bangkok at 4:25), 3:05 (arr 5:30), 3:55 (arr 6:25), 7:57 (arr 10:25), 11:34 (arr 14:55), 14:34 (arr 17:50) and 17:29 (arr 20:05). For fares and distance see entries under the opposite direction.

Khok Samrong is a small town in Lopburi Province.

Accommodation

Sawaengsuk; 104 Phahonyothin Rd, Tel 44-1236

19 rooms, sgl/dbl 80-200 (f, ac)

Sing Chai; 131-41 Sura Narai Rd, Tel 44-1246

40 rooms, sgl/dbl 80-180 (f, ac)

Suk Samran; 116 Sura Narai Rd, Tel 44-1020

6 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-80 (f)

Su Wattana; 67-69 Tambon Khok Samrong

15 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-100 (f)

Chai Badan is a small town in Lopburi Province.

Accommodation

Bunyalit; 019-020 Sura Narai Rd

Tel 46-1335, 46-1264

22 rooms, sgl/dbl 80-120 (f)

Chalerm Wattana; 506-12 Sura Narai Rd,Tel 46-1417

22 rooms, sgl/dbl 80-140 (f)

186 Mu I Tambon Lam Narai, Tel 46-1271

8 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-100 (f)

96 Mu 4, Tambon Lam Narai

Tel 46-1482, 46-1623

20 Bungalows 80-160 (f)

67/4 Sura Narai Rd, Tel 46-1334

32 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-160 (f, ac)

Places of Interest

Wang Kan Luang Waterfall

This waterfall is about 20km (13mi) from Lam Narai Market. It’s a quiet and refreshing retreat from the city.