Northeast Thailand / Phu Kradung, Loei, Chiang Khan
PHU KRADUNG NATIONAL PARK
This is a popular national park near the town of Phu Kradung in Loei Province, some 80km (50mi) south of the town of Loei and some 120km (75mi) northwest of Khon Kaen city. One can go to the Phu Kradung National Park either from Loei or Khon Kaen by bus or mini-bus - there are some of both which go directly to the park.
Phu Kradung National Park, one of Thailand’s first and most beautiful parks, consists of a lone, steep-sided mountain. The mountain is crowned by a lush and fertile 60sqkm (23sqmi) plateau with an elevation of 1,325m (4349ft). The plateau falls sharply away in many places, exposing broad panoramas of the surrounding lowlands and the Phetchabun mountains. The extraordinary flora growing in the cool mountain climate includes pine trees and several other Himalayan species such as oak, beech and hornbeam trees, as well as two species of the Australasian conifer. Wild flowers, including rhododendrons, bloom in March and April.
There are two stories about how Phu Kradung ("Bell Mountain") got its name. One says that on each Wan Phra (a Buddhist Sabbath day correlating with the lunar calendar) a mysterious bell-like sound emanates from the mountain. The other story maintains that the name was inspired by the mountain’s bell shape.
Legend has it that Phu Kradung was discovered some two centuries ago by a Lao hunter who followed the tracks of a gaur (a massive wild ox of Southeast Asia, especially the Malay archipelago). When he reached the plateau he allegedly found it teeming with gaur, deer and elephant. He was so impressed that he returned to his village with tales of a mountain unsurpassed in beauty.
A publication of Thailand’s Tourism Authority claims that "today’s visitors will feel the same awe upon sighting the plateau and, undoubtedly, go home and tell their friends just as the hunter did those many years ago."
Wildlife
Mammals of the park include wild pig, Asian wild dog, black giant squirrel, yellow-throated marten, white-handed gibbon, langur (long-tailed monkeys) and macaque (a species of monkeys characterized by cheek pouches). Elephants (which may number up to 20), Asian black bear, sambar barking deer and serow (a goat antelope) are present though seldom seen today. The eastern mole, a tiny creature no bigger than a mouse, is common on the plateau. It commonly feeds on insects but also attacks and eats lizards, mice and even small birds.
Among the birds, uncommon winter visitors to Thailand such as grey-headed thrush, orange-flanked bush robin, Mugimaki flycatcher and slaty-backed flycatcher can be seen in the plateau’s evergreen forest, as well as interesting resident species: mountain scops owl, red-headed trogon, brown hornbill, silver-breasted broadbill, maroon oriole, large scimitar babbler, blue-winged siva, slaty-blacked forktail and white-crowned forktail. Some other residents in the park which are uncommon in other parts of Thailand include jay, sultan tit, snowy-browed flycatcher and pale blue flycatcher.
Places of Interest
Beginning from the base of the mountain, a trail climbs steeply for the first kilometer and then eases off for a while only to become quite steep again for the last stretch. The trail ultimately emerges on the sweeping, plateau carpeted with grass and sprinkled with staid pine trees. Continuing along the trail to the park headquarters one will soon notice fields of violets, orchids, daisies, rhododendrons and other wild flowers which almost surreptitiously transform the plateau into a wonderland of color. Carnivorous pitcher plants, which trap insects to gather nutrients lacking in the plateau’s acidic soil, lie hidden among the grass.
After the tiring 9km (6mi) walk to the park headquarters which takes 3 to 6 hours, most people prefer to settle in and relax. At dusk, however, a short stroll to the hill with a Buddha statue is recommended. From there one can watch the setting sun provide a prismatic background to the groves of pines.
The next morning, one should get up while it is still dark (and chilly) and walk to Phu Nok Aen at the eastern edge of the plateau. The cliff offers a breathtaking view of the crimson sunrise. After breakfast, there are nearly 50km (31mi) of clearly marked trails (signs are in both Thai and English) waiting to be explored.
The southern trail runs 12km (8mi) along the precipitous edge of the plateau. At Phu Lomsak, a sandstone ledge provides a fine view of the surrounding hills and valleys. Gibbon calls can be heard from the forest while swifts glide gracefully below. At Phu Yiap Mek cotton-like clouds suggest a misty world of shadowy figures.
The northern trail rolls past untouched streams sheltered by a lush evergreen forest. During the cold winter months maple trees blanket the trail with scarlet leaves, and during the rainy season waterfalls interrupt the gentle flow of the streams.
Weather
The average annual rainfall in the Phu Kradung Park region is 1.21m (3.98ft). The period from May to September has an average of 19 to 21 rainy days per month while from November to February, the average is just three rainy days or less per month. The average annual temperature is 26°C (79°F). Mean maximum temperatures climb to 32° to 36°C (90° to 97°F) between February and August while mean minimum temperatures fall to 13° to 14°C (10° to 15°F) in December and January. Evening temperatures at the plateau can fall to near freezing during winter.
Facilities
Facilities at the Sithan Base Station include an Information Center, restaurants, picnic tables and bungalows. Porters can be hired to carry visitors’ bags. Several stalls selling cold drinks and snacks are spaced along the trail to the summit plateau; the stalls are closed on weekdays except during the tourist season. Shops at the headquarters on the summit plateau sell drinks, canned food, simple Thai meals and such basics as soap and candles. Visitors should bring warm clothes; it’s sweater weather year round.
Phu Kradung is much visited throughout the peak tourist season (from October to January, but especially in October) and also all weekends even during the off-season except when the rains come. The best time to avoid crowds is on weekdays and at the start of the rainy season in late May or early June when rain normally falls only a few hours per day.
Accommodation
Phu Kradung House; Phu Kradung
300 bungalows, 80-140
Bkk Resv Tel 271-3737, 270-0488
National Park Phu Kradung
16 rooms, sgl/dbl 500-1,200
Bkk Resv Tel 579-0529, 579-4842
Wang Saphung
Wang Saphung is a town in Loei Province, some 30km (19mi) south of Loei town.
Accommodation
Phu Luang Wildlife Conservation Area
Reservation Tel 81-1258, 81-1776
Wang Samran; 174 Maliwan Rd
17 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-100
Wang Saphung ; 40 Mu 15, Phum Withi Rd
Tel 84-1394; 8 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-100
Phu Luang
The Phu Luang area between the towns and villages of Wang Saphung, Phu Rua and Dan Sai is a blend of tropical and temperate climate forests due to its location on a high plateau with an elevation of 1,550m (5,085ft). Wild animals are abundant. Arrangements for transportation, accommodation and sight-seeing can be made at the Loei Administration and Service Office, Tel (042) 80-0776 and 81-1700. Tours are with a set minimum number of visitors.
LOEI
Loei, 520km (325mi) from Bangkok, is the capital of Loei Province. Although part of the Northeast, Loei Province has many things in common with northern Thailand. It has numerous high hills and mountains and a foggy climate. It is the only province in Thailand with the dubious distinction of the mercury plummeting to 0° Celsius (32°F).
Accommodation
Di Phakdi; 681 Ua-Ari Rd, Tel 81-1294
18 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-120 (f)
King; 11/9-12 Chumsai Rd, Tel 81-1701, 81-1783
48 rooms, sgl/dbl 150-500 (f, ac)
Phu Luang Hotel; 55 Charoen Rat Rd
Tel 81-1532, 81-1520
86 rooms, sgl/dbl 120-300 (f, ac)
Saraithong; 26/5 Ruamchit Rd, Tel 81-1582
56 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-120 (f)
Si Sawad; 524 Ruamchit Rd, Tel 81-1574
28 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-120 (f)
Thai Udom; 122 Charoen Rat Rd, Tel 81-1763
56 rooms, sgl/dbl 180-220 (ac)
Sam-O; 191/1-9 Charoen Rat Rd, Tel 81-2353
27 rooms, sgl/dbl 100-200
Transportation
Bangkok - Loei
Buses from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal on Phahonyothin Road; 560km, non-aircon 106 Baht, 4:00, 5;00, 14:00, 18:30, 20:30, 21:30; aircon 191 Baht, 9:00, 12:30, 20:00, 21:00, 21:30
Provincial Flights
Loei - Phitsanulok
Thai Airways has a direct flight three times a week from Loei to Phitsanulok. Departure is in the mid-morning. While departure times might change every 6 months, the changes are likely to be minimal while the frequency is basically maintained. Flight time is around 40min.
Phitsanulok - Loei
Thai Airways has a direct flight from Phitsanulok to Loei three times a week. Departure is in the early morning. Flight time is around 40min.
Chiang Khan
Chiang Khan, a town of Loei Province, some 50km (31mi) north of the town of Loei, is right on the bank of the Mekong River and on the border to Laos.
Accommodation
Amnat Siri; 282 Chai Khong Rd
15 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-100
Phon Sawad; 251/2 Chai Khong Rd, Tel 82-1114
7 rooms, sgl/dbl 60-80 (f)
Suk Sombun; 243/3 Chai Khong Rd, Tel 82-1064
17 rooms, sgl/dbl 80-120 (f)
Places of Interest
Kaeng Kut Ku
This series of rapids in the middle of the Mekong River near Chiang Khan creates a narrow but extremely swift current. Immersed in and smoothed by the rushing water for ages, the rocks shine in many colors.
Wat Si Khun Mutang
This monastery north of the Chiang Khan market has walls made of glassy materials. Wall murals depict a religious legend.
Transportation
Bangkok - Chiang Khan
Buses from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal on Phahonyothin Road; 332km, VIP 320 Baht, 20:00
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