I BOUGHT A BROKEN GT3RS THAT PORSCHE REFUSED TO FIX

I've just bought this GT3 RS because Porsche have refused to fix it.From the outside, this GT3 RS looks immaculate.

Who can say no to a GT3 RS?

But it's what lies in the engine bay that made this car so cheap.

There seems to be a little bit of leakage on the floor.

This car used to have a full manufacturer warranty, which covered nearly everything on the car.But for some reason, when the previous owner took it into Porsche, with an engine problem, they voided the warranty.Leaving the previous owner with a 3RS that doesn't run or drive.Now, I want to solve the problem, fix it, and take it back to Porsche to try and regain that warranty.

And we've got our inspection back.

But this is not going to be as easy as I first thought.

Why is the oil on the floor?At this point, we don't know.

So here's the situation.I wouldn't have bought this GT3 RS if I didn't think it was going to be an absolute bargain and a steal.

This car has been looked after so well.The car's been fully PPFed.

It's a really, really good condition 991 GT3 RS.Like even inside, everything's been really well looked after.Everything's original.I think the roll cage has been wrapped.Other than that, the car is is pretty much perfect but of course there's something seriously wrong with the engine and all we know is that it doesn't run and that's about it because we picked it up from a repossession auction the first step i think is just to get the car in the ramp and see how bad the engine is because if the engine is seriously bad then it goes from being a bargain to not so much now when i try to start the car i can hear the starter motor turning over so i don't think it's that so before we gofurther, I wanted to get it up in the ramp to see if there was anything obvious that's stopping this car from starting.

Ooh.

You good?

Very wet here.

Is there any metal fragments on here?Look at that, that is horrid.Thick as oat, isn't it?Yeah.

So far, it's only got an oil leak.There's nothing obvious we can see at all underneath the car, apart from a little oil around the sump plugs.So I guess, so far so good.What we really hope is that if the engine's bad, we're hoping the gearbox is good, because if they're both bad, then this is no longer any good.

Okay, so I just stuck my hand on the sump plug, and...Ooh, that's good.You can just loosen it, it's finger tight.What about this one?Oh!That is also finger tight.

Someone's been here before then.

Someone's got a bit.There's no way you have two sump plugs loose.Someone's been here before.

So, do you think the oil's just dripping out the sump plugs because they're loose and you've been trying to start it and it's pushing the oil out?Possibly.

Potentially, yeah.

So we might be good.

Should we take them out and see what oil's left in the engine?Yeah.Let's do that.

Because if there's loads of oil left in the engine, then those sump plugs were left loose by someone and that's the reason why it's blown up.I don't know.A bit.

A bit.

Okay.What else could have happened?timing could have gone completely there because it could have gone wrong.why it won't crank.That timing could have jumped.And when we remove the other sump plug, again not much oil come out of that either.

So far nothing obvious.Take the oil filter out.see if there's any metal inside that.

All we know about this car is that the previous owner stopped paying his finance because Porsche voided his warranty when supposedly he had a problem with the engine.

It's crazy, does it?

Why won't it crank?

If you look here, you know on your lower arm here, this side you are meant to have a nut on the end of the bolt, okay?If you go this side, there is no thread nor no nut.

Let me see.

That is gone.That is not going to drive very well.Oh, yeah.

So there is signs that someone's been here before, but we can't find any reason at the minute as to why Porsche's voided the warranty or the problem with the engine.So it looks like we've got to investigate further.

No sweat.Go on.Go on.It worked.

And to investigate further, we've got to remove the wheels because now we're going to try and get to the spark plugs.

Two e -torque there and there should get to the spark plugs.

Before we go any further, I'm going to remove all six spark plugs.And maybe by removing these, it will give us some clues as to what's going on inside that engine.But the first spark plug looked fine, so did the second.

Again, very wet, but not so much to worry about.pieces.

I continued removing all the spark plugs on the right -hand side of the engine, and Liam removed all the spark plugs on the left -hand side of the engine.Remember, these are six -cylinder engines.There's three cylinders on each side, as they call it, a flat six.But when we got all the plugs out, none of them gave any clues as to why this engine wasn't turning over.

Load up the camera.

I would ring Porsche at this point and see if they've got any information about it, but it's ten past six, so they're not going to be open.Let's see if we can find this ourselves, because at the minute there's no evidence of anything.With the spark plugs out, we can put this camera down the cylinder and see if we can see any damage inside there.But again, on each cylinder on the right -hand side of the engine, it all looked pretty good.Nothing really untoward.What about the left side?

like a little bit of oil maybe going past the piston ring well yeah right okay the only thing i can think then is put oil in it put a battery on it crank it with no spark plugs in and see if it'll turn yeah because then there's no compression or anything and if it don't turn then Big problem.

Then there's a big problem, yeah.

So the sump plugs are going back in, and then we're going to put some oil in the engine.And next time when we turn over the engine, because there's no spark plugs in there, there should be no compressions.

That is tight.

So it should be easier to turn it over.So we're bringing the car down, and now time to add oil.

7 .5 litres.Now, if we pour this in and it starts coming out, then we know we've got a problem.

The car takes seven and a half liters and we're going to pour that in now and maybe after we pour this oil in we'll find out the reason why it barely had any in it in the first place.But looking underneath there was no leak.

So are we expecting now for it to crank completely fine?

If it cranks now completely fine.I'm gonna put a battery on it, then I might put the spark plugs back in and try it again.New battery guys, and look, I got a genuine one, because if it's not genuine, and we try and get our Porsche approved repair on this, and Porsche warranty, we're gonna fail because we've not got a genuine battery, and they do check that.

So, I got a genuine one, it's only 95 quid.Alright.

The first time I tried to turn the car over with the key, we had a jumper pack on the front because the old battery was completely dead.Just to eliminate that the jumper pack didn't have enough power, I have bought a new battery.And if we've got any hope on getting our warranty for this car, at the end of the video, we've got to replace everything with genuine Porsche parts.That's what I've done.Liam, predictions?

I think it's going to crank and it's going to sound good, and then we're going to put spark plugs back in, coil packs back in, crank it again and it's going to start.That confident?

That confident.

What do you think, Matt?

I honestly have no idea, but I do think it's gonna crank.There's nothing in there suggesting it shouldn't crank, unless the timing's out.

Or because there was no oil, it's seized up a little bit.

Whatever, let's try it.So, no spark plugs are in it.New batteries on from Porsche.Let's see what we get.Refill coolant, so there's no coolant.We still haven't solved that issue yet, have we?

Into park, here we go.

You're joking, there's no way.That cranks really good.There's no way it's just the battery.

Did anything come out?No, do it again.

the engine actually turned over no leaks yeah that's good no way that's so good if i'm no there's no there's no way it's too good to be true if if if we put those plugs back in there's still there's still the issue if there was loose somethingand no cooling that's still it ain't gonna be it ain't it ain't gonna be just plugs but that cranks way good could it literally have just been a dead battery?surely not.

I'm telling you I can't believe it.We're putting it back in and it's gonna start.

100 % I walked on and see was expecting a hole in the block that's what I was expecting Yeah, this is odd so far, isn't it?So with there being nothing obvious, I was just going to clean up the spark plugs that we've just took out and then put them back in and try it again.

Right, original plugs going back in.And now I'm going to put the spark plugs in this side.

There's got to have been a reason why this car was so cheap and why Porsche voided the warranty, but there is a chance I could have got very lucky.If this starts up and runs really good, then I'll buy everyone You hungry?

Nando's.I'm in.I'm in.You sure?

Yes.What, you weren't here?

It sounded a bit different with the spark plugs in, didn't it?Go again.

No, no, just everything needs a prompt, didn't it?

A little bit at the end then.I think try again.No, no, no.

The more you do it, the better it's going to get.

I really want Nando's too.

I think it's the timing.Like, you know, that don't...It's not cranking nicely.

Definitely don't sound like it's cranking good.

So as most of you will know, there's four strokes on an engine.The first stroke is the intake stroke, where the intake valves open up, suck a load of air into the cylinder, and when the piston's on the way back up, the valve's closed to allow the piston to compress that air that's just been sucked in.When the piston's right at the top of the cylinder, fuel gets injected into it, and the spark plug ignites that compressed air and the fuel, pushing the piston back down on its power stroke.Then, the next time the piston comes back up, the exhaust valves open and get rid of all that burnt gas sending it out of the exhaust.Now, in order for this to all work, the crankshaft at the bottom of the engine has got to be in time with the camshafts which open up the valves at the top.This is called timing.

And if the timing is out, then that fuel and compressed air isn't going to fire.Alongside that, if we don't get a spark, then it's not going to fire.And if we don't get fuel, then it's not going to fire.Everything needs to work at perfect timing.Do you know the only other thing?

This was in the car.

The seat.It was.It was on the seat when we got it.

This fuse was sat on the passenger seat when we picked up the car.I didn't really think much of it when we first got it, but now I'm thinking, has this been removed?Stopping power going to the fuel, or even the spark.So now I'm just checking up to see where that fuse has actually come from.

That left hand side, B5, is missing a fuse.yeah yeah and on this that i'm reading here b5 is a 20 amp

fuel pump relay yeah i've just got the same so if that's not in that ain't getting no fuel why have they done that plug it in and start it up and i've got the same look b5 fuel pump relay and which one's b5 so now we're going to put this fuse back into where we think it should have gone and maybe now the car will get fuel this is weird because that fuse was just sitting in the car.It was on that passenger seat, yeah.See what happens now?Porsche centre centre.It's been to Porsche.This don't make sense.

See, if we plugged in a diagnostic tool, we would have told there's no fuel.Here we go.

Hold on up.Okay.

It's misfiring.It's misfiring.See the flashing engine light, meaning it's misfiring.So now we can probably find out the reason why this car got taken to Porsche in the first place.

Okay.Definitely got a misfire because it stinks of fuel now.

But someone's moved that fuel pump relay.Why someone took that out?The fuel pump fuse.Obviously to stop someone from starting it and wrecking the engine probably.

Shall we compression test it?

Well first we'll plug the diagnostics to be able to see what cylinder is not firing, hopefully.And then take the spark plug out, see if the spark plug's firing, then we compression test it.So far it's doing alright.We skipped a few steps and then went back and then the obvious was right in front of us, a fuse again.What are the chances of that?People are going to think we made that up.

But there's got to be a reason why we have that really bad misfire.So I plugged the Autel in to see if that would tell us anything.

4, 5, 6.

Misfire detected.

Intake camshaft sensor short circuit to ground.Exhaust...It basically said the whole right -hand side of the engine wasn't working at all.Cylinders four, five and six were misfiring and the camshaft position sensors on that side also weren't working.Something can't be right.You can see only one side of the exhaust is hot.

This side by any chance?

So nothing is coming out of that side but air.

I think it's time to compression test the engine.

Compression tester?

What we're doing here is removing the spark plugs and then we can screw in the compression tester to make sure when the piston goes up on its compression stroke, there is actually compression there.

What we're looking for is some form of compression.

I think we will get compression, but whether it's consistent for all of the cylinders, we don't know.yeah 75 psi 75 psi in first one, which we didn't know whether was good or bad So in we go into cylinder number five test that maybe like 65 It did seem a little lower than cylinder six, but I still think it should run with that compression What about cylinder four?Yeah, we had like 125 that went to That's what it's probably meant to be.The other two might be.It should still run with that compression.

It's got something.

Unless it's compressioning it the wrong time.Oh, it is too much for my brain.

Put the spark plugs in the coil packs and just see if they're actually sparking.Yes, I'll do that for you.

Right, next step, let's see if we got spark from the spark plug.So, coil pack going in, spark plug into the coil pack, and then we gotta ground it out.

See if that sparks, Matt.

Yeah, yeah, yeah.It was sparking.

Yep, definitely.

We're getting fuel, because I can smell it.

I can see it.

And we're getting spark.That's definitely sparked.

100%.

Has the timing jumped?Next one we're checking.Give it a go, Liam.Yeah, yeah, yeah.

100%.

Yeah, I've seen that one then.

Do you know when you're under the car, and it's trying to start, that isn't sparking until the car starts.Yeah, yeah, yeah.

It should be sparking before the car's starting.

It's only doing when it starts, isn't it?

Yeah, exactly like that, yeah.

But it's like those camshaft sensors ain't telling it.These sensors ain't telling it.And we're getting short circuit on them.Now the spark plugs need to know when to spark.And they do this because they're told by various sensors on the car.Some of them being the camshaft sensors.

Once the engine knows what position the camshafts are in, then it'll send a signal to the spark plug to spark.It seems like our engine, the spark plugs are not sparking on the right hand side until the car's started.Which is strange.So the car's only starting up with the left side of the engine.Then the spark plug starts sparking.Now we did switch over the camshaft sensors from the left side side of the engine to the right side of the engine, but still had the same result.

So there's something that's got to be wrong with our camshafts.

I think you're right.I think the cams ain't spinning.

I think they ain't spinning.Engine is coming out.You reckon?I reckon engine's coming out.Engine very bad?Engine's very bad.

Very bad.

I think the engine's got to come out.There's a problem with the cams, some kind of timing issue.it's got to come out to solve it.We think it's been out before because hence why that bolt was snapped because we just had a look at how we take the engine out and that is one of the bolts that we're going to remove to take the engine out so when we pull the driveshaft we can pull that away.So I do I think this car might have been out before and Porsche put it back in and then pulled that fuse up.That might explain it.

They don't put any oil and waterin it.

But why would they get that far and not fix it?

It seems odd.

Because the guy just decided the bill might have been too much.

New engine.It was a new engine.40 grand, yeah.But then he thought he had warranty dinner.So, bless him.Right, we've got to remember we need to do everything to Porsche specs.

So all the original bolts have got to go back in the original holes.Let's...Was this engine out?

10 to 10.I reckon it's out by 12 o 'clock.Let's go.

So we're committing to taking out the engine of the GT3 RS.We think there's an issue with the internals of it.And to get to the engine, first, we've got to remove the rear bumper.And underneath the boot lid, there's a few other trims that we need to remove just so we can access the top of the engine.And in my opinion, with these GT3 RSs, the engines are pretty easy to remove.They're not a huge engine.

and they sit right at the back and because they have that sort of race car design everything's sort of built to come apart quite quick.Now we've taken the bumper off, then the rear carbon cover and we can see someone has definitely been here before because there's clips which are missing of the intake pipe and a few hoses which aren't connected back onto the engine.It's almost like this car was thrown back together, and we still don't know why.Now we can access the engine bay, I can disconnect the fuel lines, the coolant lines, and the wires running to the engine ECU.And once they're all disconnected, we can lift the car up and start removing the driveshafts.The idea is just to disconnect everything connecting the engine to the rest of the car.

So suspension arms and subframes have all got to come out.

He looks pretty serious there, doesn't he?He looks serious.

And now we've got our new special engine left, which is hydraulically controlled.Very nice.This can go underneath the car, lift up and support the engine and the gearbox together.We're gonna do a few more bolts and lift the engine out.Engine is out.It would have been way quicker if it come out the way we thought it was gonna come out, but for some reason we had to undo this subframe section here.

So half 11, no 12.Half 12.

That's not that bad, three hours.

Half an hour over time frame.If you ever do this, take the exhaust off first because that was all we needed to do to get the engine out the first time was it to move back about like six inches backwards.Yeah, literally it needed to go six inches backwards.We couldn't do it because the exhaust was in the way.So lesson learned, take the exhaust off first.Okay.

Judging from what we can see off the off, this wiring does look okay.So it's not like it is shorting out like the Autel was telling us.There's got to be a problem inside here.with the cam sensors.So I think we pull this away and then tomorrow we start stripping this engine apart and find out what's up with it.Now that the engine's out, we've just got to hope we can find the issue to why this car is only running on three cylinders.

The first step to do that is to remove the exhaust.We need to get this out of the way so we can access everything on the front of the engine to be able to turn it over before we go any further.

Okay, exhaust is off.

It's not necessary, but it is making it a lot easier because now we can get to the crank to spin over the engine.But we want to go on this side because this was the side that wasn't firing.Now, to take the rocker cover off and reveal the camshafts and have a look under there, see what's going on.There's these bolts here, so when I remove them, Straight down there is a hole meant to put a tool inand we borrowed the tools last time to fix that car over there you slide it in and it goes like in this gap down here and that holds the camshafts in because then the rocker cover comes up because if we remove the rocker cover without putting that tool in the camshafts are gonna want to go yeet straight out so I've not got a tool but I think a screwdriver may do the job.Before we try a screwdriver, I've got to remove all the wiring which sits on top of this rocker cover.

Then I can start loosening the bolts which hold the rocker cover in place.

This is our Porsche tool.

This tool slides down the hole and sits on top of the camshafts and you need two just to support them.Now we can remove the rocker cover and see what's lying underneath.There's a little bit of wear on it but not memento.The lifter arms are missing.

So Someone's been in this engine.

Look, this is why we had compression on here, look.

Because none of these cam lobes, look, they're none of that, oh.

Yeah, look, so there should be something which pushes down that valve.And at the minute, these cams are spinning round and none of them are opening or closing the valves, which would explain why we had compression on every single cylinder, because all the valves are shut.

They're all shut.

I'm sure there's probably meant to be a lifter in here.

On this engine, when the camshaft spins round, instead of the cam sitting directly onto a hydraulic tappet, which pushes down on the valve spring to open the valve, the cam sits on a finger follower.And when the cam rotates, it pushes the finger follower down, which pushes the valve spring down with the valve to open up the valve.let air in and the exhaust fumes out.But on this engine they're missing.The finger followers are known to fail on these engines and this doesn't have any.So at least it can't fail.

We found out that on the GT3 RSs, specifically this year one, the finger followers, along with the camshafts, are known for failure.And it's something to do with the material that Porsche have made them out of.They cause excessive wear on them, and with excessive wear, it causes the cam not to open as much, which can cause misfires right at the top end of the revs, or even the engine to sound really noisy.So the cam variators... which do all the variable valve timing.These are meant to be tightened up to like, it's a lot.What are you saying?

That would explain why these cam sensors on here are getting no signal because they're not, it's not even spinning.So when this engine's rotating, those cams are saying, those cams will be staying in that position and just be spinning around those sprockets.Oh my God.We're going to have to check over this whole engine.Now, because those bolts are left loose, on the cam variators at the end of the cams, when the chain is actually spinning and pulling them round, the cam variators are not tight onto the camshafts, so they won't actually even be turning the camshafts, which explains all of our fault codes.It would have been easier if we found the problem, but somebody's already found it and put it back, which has made it a bit harder.

Anyway, let's go to the other side.I wish Porsche would just tell us.what the issue is.We tried to ring on but no luck yet.So now we're going to start stripping apart the other side of the engine as this side should be okay because everything did run fine.You can see how it works, so the cam lube pushes that down, which pushes the valve down, pushes it open.

Apparently they wear on the top there.Why are they missing out on the other side?

You can't get them out unless you take the cams out.

Which would explain why the bolts are loose on the cam variators on the other side.Because someone had to remove the cams to take out the lifters.

At the minute, we only need cam followers on that side.

But that just don't make any sense.Why would they not just replace them?Very, very odd one.I'm gonna ring my dad.

We're in trouble.

I don't know, apparently.

He put him to voicemail.

Carnage.

That's your own dad.

So at the minute, all that's missing are the cam followers on one side of the engine.And we still have no explanation as to why they were removed or why the warranty was voided.

Right, just inspect it a little further here.This cam here, okay, these are meant to be nice and smooth.

And if they're not nice and smooth, the way the valve is going to open is it should open like that and then down.But because this, I don't know if you can see it, there's a small flat spot on here.The valve is then going to go down, up, down.Like, you know, it's not going to have that smooth opening and closing.And that is perisseur.And apparently that's a common problem because of the way the oil is fed to it.

Do you see this?It's like the furthest away and the highest up.So, the way the oil is feeding to this and it was a material problem apparently at Porsche.So, this cam's going to need replacing.And then I'll also replace the lifters as well.The exhaust seems all okay.

But again, on further inspection on the other side, I will take this cam off.but i can feel just under here as well it feels flat i won't know yet until i take the cam out but i am i'm gonna take that cam out the exhaust seems fine these all seem nice and smooth it's just Yeah, they do feel flat.It's going to be better when I get them out and then we'll have a look.So let me get this cam out and then you guys can see.

So I think we've found the issue as to why this car was stripped apart.

But it still doesn't explain why the warranty was void.If these camshafts had worn and the lifters had worn out, this all should be covered under warranty.So why didn't Porsche, when they took this apart, which is what we're assuming, fix it whilst it was all out?I guess we need to find out later.For now, I'm going to try and remove these camshafts to see how bad they actually are.I've slackened off the chain by taking the tensioner out.

Then I can pop off the variators of the camshafts and then remove them.First off is the exhaust cam, which doesn't look too bad at all.Then I can remove the intake cam, which definitely is the one causing the issue.

Found it.Check this out.

It's really hard to see, but that is all types of shapes.

Yeah, it doesn't look smooth, does it?It's a bit.

Look, you can even see there, look, you see it's flat on top.You can see it's flat.It's meant to look rounded.Oh, and that one's flat as well.That tiny little thing caused the engine, like, it might have ran, it might have idled, but when you're revving it and the valve's gotta open, like, a lot, it definitely would have been misfiring, because it's just not letting in enough air.Yeah, that wouldn't have been working, so we need a camshaft.

And it looks like we're gonna need a camshaft for that side as well.At least we've got a camshaft.what we need to order So essentially what's happened is when the cam lobe is rotating on that finger follower after a while they've both worn away at each other to the point where some of the cam lobes have worn flat in certain spaces and this is going to affect how much the valve can open and the smoothness of how the valve opens which can cause misfires and a lot of other issues but it seems like it's only affected the intake camshafts on both sides of the engine I've been shopping.

We've got everything.

Five and a half grand worth of stuff.All the engine oils, all the service bit, camshaft, cam followers, all the parts needed to hopefully build this engine.Let's have a go.I'm going to see if we can fix this side first and then do that side, because that side is all timed up.So at least I know that that side rotates and turns and is fine.And then we'll do one side at a time.

Let's go.

So now we have all the parts to hopefully fix this engine.

And the interesting thing is that when I called Porsche to order these parts, they actually told me the reason why this car was refused its warranty.But we'll get to that.For now, let's go.I put the engine at top dead centre and put the pin tool in the crank to hold it there and then I can start unboxing the new camshafts and the finger followers.The only way I know how to rebuild this engine is that I'm assuming it's pretty similar to the 992 GT3 RS that we've previously done.I've now put in the finger followers on the intake camshaft and now I can fit the new intake camshaft on top of those finger followers and then hold down the camshaft with the tools in right intake cam is on with the rocker arms now this is the varia this is the

at the minute, that will not spin with the engine, until I put on this.But even then, that won't spin.So, the way to get that spinning is you have a nut on the end, and you tighten that up, and it grips onto that and spins.But obviously, you never want that to slip, or else your timing's gonna go out.So, what they have to grip it, actually in here, you can just see, this is almost like a clutch.and that grabs on to the cam and I've got some new we're gonna call it a clutch plate I don't know what it's called but these are gonna be fitted on the inside of the cam variator and they'll grip on to the cam plate slash grip tape in.

With that plate fitted in I can then slide on the variator onto the end of the camshaft and then begin working on the exhaust cam side by putting in the finger followers which were originally missing and then putting the original exhaust camshaft over the top of them and holding them in with the red tooling.The camshafts are in but the variators will still spin on their own.To make sure these cams are in the correct place we have the special tool and this special tool only goes in one way it's got to slide over the cams and we'll know whether we're doing it right because it won't work if it don't this cam tool slides over the cams almost like a fork and if the cams were the wrong way up the fork wouldn't slide over them now remember when i was cranking this up you weren't allowed some kind of tool on it These are the vital parts now which are going to lock those variators onto the cams.So we've got a new locking bolt.And then that bolt slides into the end of the camshaft.and that's got a grip on to the cam variator so then they all spin as one now we need that chain to be tight there is a special tool to keep the chain tight but we don't have it so we're just going to use a chain tensor which should be good enough This will go down.

It's important that the chain's tight before we tighten on those variators.So then we've got no chance of anything moving by a tooth when the engine starts.This tool here holds the locking nut on the cam variators in place.And once that's in place, we can then begin to tighten up the bolts which hold the variators onto the cams.30Nm first turn.Same for the exhaust side and then it's 40 degrees.

40 degrees now.

On the intake and on the exhaust.

40.

And then there's one more step after that.

40.Now another 5 degrees.

The bolts on the end of these cams are really tight.So you can see how important it is for them not to slip.But now that they're all tightened up, we can remove the tooling.and hope that the engine is all timed up on this right hand side.I think that the cams are going to be different each side but i'm really i could have misinterpreted this whole thing that side's timed we know because it ran this side should be timed now but it's whether it is timed to one another At the minute, these cams are a different way up to those cams.So if I went on that side and tried to put that locking tool on it, it wouldn't work because the cams on that side are the other way around.

But let's see if that's correct or not.

I'm going to try and turn this over.

A way to test that everything's good, one, is just by turning over the engine.

I think we're in the clear.

That felt good.

So if it wasn't good, what would have happened?

It'd either locked out or it wouldn't have felt right.Best way to test now is to go back to TDC and see if the cam tools will line back up, because if they don't, something's moved.

Let's go on to TDC which was 014.Is that in contact?

That's in contact, isn't it?Okay, that's looking good.Now we've got to do the other side.So new cam in, it's only intake the other side we're changing.Time it all up, put it back together, put it in.

Let's go do the other side.Off we go.

Now to finish up this side, I've just got some new seals to put on in the middle, then a new seal for the rocker cover, and after that I can slide back on the rocker cover and put back in all the bolts to hold it in.And that's hopefully this side all working now.The high pressure fuel pump bolts into the top, and then I can put in all the wiring and the sensors back into this cylinder head.And finally, remove the tools holding the cams in place.Now, time to move over to the left -hand side of the engine.So now we do one turn, and then when we take the rocker covers off that side, they should be the correct way up.

We're turning the engine over once, and then putting it back into TDC.

So when we take that side off now, because we've done one turn, the cam locking tool should go straight onto that side, if I've done this right.It's a fairly complicated procedure, but to try and explain it, for every one turn of the crankshaft, the cams only turn by half.

That tool should go straight on.

So essentially the left side of the engine, the cams are doing something completely different to the cams on the right side of the engine.they're almost upside down to one another.And if that doesn't make sense, don't worry.We're just going to hope it all works once we put it into the car.Luckily for us, the left side, we only need to replace the intake camshaft and the finger followers on the intake.So now I'm removing the bolt for the cam variators on both of them because I need to slide them off the cams and then I'm going to remove the intake camshaft along with the finger followers.

Here's the perished one.Not as bad as the other side.

Nowhere near as bad as the other side, but it's still pretty bad.Look at the wear on them.

Take them all out.

The exhaust camshaft and finger followers can all stay in place because they seem in pretty good condition.But these finger followers and the intake cam are going to get thrown in the bin.

New cam, lovely stuff.

So here's the new camshaft and the finger followers which are made out of a different material to the originals.It seems that Porsche have rectified their mistake.I'm putting in the new clutch plate on both of the variators and then in go the finger followers and the intake camshaft which sits on top of them.I tighten them down with a tool and then I can slide back on the variators onto both camshafts.Time for all the timing tools.These slide on like the fork again, hold the cams in the correct position whilst the engine's at TDC and then I can put the locking tool at the end and tighten up the variators onto it.

Remember 30Nm first turn, then 40 degrees, then 5 degrees afterwards.And that is the other side of the engine complete.Finally, I can remove all the timing tools off that and we should be good to go.But of course, not before new seals on the rocker cover this side as well.If we've got any hope on trying to get this car some Porsche warranty at the end, we've got to make sure it's not leaking any oil and it is original as it left the factory.Because it's going to undergo a big inspection at the end of the video.

Final bits to bolt up on the engine now and we're almost there.Last little bits before we put it in.Obviously, we're going to give it a service.We've got some fresh spark plugs for it.These are going to go in.Yeah, fresh plugs.

They're going in three each side.Then we can button it all up and start lifting it back in the car.Whilst the engines out it makes sense just to replace the spark plugs this car sitting at around 30 ,000 miles So it's probably due a spark plug change as well, and it's not too expensive to replace them remember There's only six on this engine once the spark plugs are in the coil packs can go in on top of them and they bolt Into the rocker cover to save the coil packs working themselves loose just like what they did on the Bugatta after that I can bolt in all the ground wires and clip on all the electrical connections before moving on to the left side of the engine to put the other three spark plugs in that side.Again, doing the exact same thing.Coil packs in, ground wires on, then all the electrical connections afterwards.Then Liam's on the front of the engine, putting in all the mountains, ready for it to go back in.

Big moment then, engine going in.

At the minute, it's only a £5 ,200 fix on a car potentially worth £140.even more if we get this warranty sorted as well from Porsche afterwards this could be a lovely lovely little buy providing this all works so let's get it in let's get it bolted up and we'll start itwith the bare minimum on, just to see, because if we have to pull it back out again, which I really hope we're not gonna have to, touch wood, it's gonna be a lot easier if we don't bolt everything together.In we go.Now before I bought this car, it had full Porsche warranty, which should have covered this repair on the engine.But when I bought the parts to repair this engine, Porsche told me the reason why they voided it.

And that was when the car come in for repair, they didn't think the wear on the engine matched the mileage on the car.and after plugging in their computer they could see that the car in the previous year had ran for 30 hours but in those 30 hours only travelled at 1 .4 miles an hour for each of those hours which seems a little shadier so they suspected that it may have had a mileage blocker on it in the past year Oil is in, that's old oil, ECU is in, all the electrical connections we think are plugged in to enable the car to start.Yeah, let's just do it.Let's commit.

Yeah, let's do that.

Let's commit.Get all the oil out, fresh oil, fresh filter, fresh sump bungs, committed to this starting up first time and running smooth.It's going to be loud because there's no exhaust on it, but as long as it runs.

Come on.

And the interesting thing is that if we put this registration plate into CarVertical to check the car's history out, we can see that on the mileage graph between 2025 and 2026, the car only seems to do around 600 miles, which does seem a little shady.But we may be able to contest this when we attempt to get the warranty back at the end of this video.And other than that, the CarVertical report comes back pretty clean.It has had 8 owners and I can see a full timeline of the car but there's nothing significantwhich stands out on this report that I should be wary of.Right, oil in next but remember to check your car out on Carvertical click the link in the description box below and also use my discount code on the screen now to get a discount on that check.

It could save you a lot of money if you're going to buy a lemon, hopefully.Not like this.Oh, it is a lemon, isn't it?It's yellow.

It's a lemon, yeah.Hopefully it's not going to be a lemon anymore after I put six litres of oil in it.

Well, it actually takes seven, but we're going to put six, we don't want to overfill it.Right, this is the oil that Porsche give you.We've done everything Porsche, the Porsche standards and specifications, because we are hoping we get our warranty back at the end.We're going to find out.Right, this is definitely the oil fill, right?If we do get this repair right, we could have a perfect GT3 RS with that Porsche warranty.

And this is unusual for me because normally most of the cars I buy have been in an accident before.But if this car was in an accident before, it would have shown up on the car vertical report.And sometimes it would actually even show you photos of when the car got auctioned off at the car crash auction site.But on this one, it's completely clean.So we're hoping for a bargain here.So the oils in the car, the fuel lines are connected and the top end is now rebuilt.

We haven't put the exhaust on or any cooling in just yet.just in case there's any other issues with the car.For now, we just want to get this thing running to make sure the repair that we've done is right.

Time to shine.Ready?

I'm slightly worried.

Straight in there.

Just crank it and redline it.

Yeah.

Come on!

It might be working.We have been told that it needs to relearn the position of the valves and everything now, and you might need the Porsche tool to be able to reset those values.But it sounds okay, but I don't know.

It's running better than it was before.

Oh yeah, at least it's running on six cylinders now, yeah.So they put Ortel in it, clear the codes, start it up again, check the oil.Put the coolant in it.Right, let's check the fault codes.

The good news is that the fault codes that we had at the minute weren't anything related with the engine.All of which should disappear once we build the full car up.

Let's see if we run it, if we get any fault codes on the engine.Here we go.That sounds way better this time.Yeah.Something don't sound right with that.Four faults.

Yeah.Damn.Four and six misfiring.Why would four and six be misfiring?I think we've got a problem with the exhaust cam.Now we changed the inlet cams on both sides, but on the right -hand side, we only changed the lifters for the exhaust cam and put the original exhaust cam back in.

So I'm thinking we have an issue with it.So we've got to do all that again?Yes.

I think we're in a dream at the minute.

can't be the intake cam because we changed it we just didn't change the exhaust cam so it can't be the fact that it's got to do that learning procedure because of the fact that it wouldn't it wouldn't misfire it would just not run as good but it wouldn't misfire run it again sit on one side in it okay i think we need a camshaft four and six before we jump to anything we're going to switch coil four over with five because five's running right four isn't six isn't But if we run it next time and the missile is in five, we know it's the coil.We're going back to basics again, but I do think it's something to do with the cam or the exhaust cam.5, 4.We're going to switch them over and see if the misfire moves.

Let's see if cylinder 5 gets a misfire now.Come on.

Sounds fine.It can't be out of time.It's fine.That feels really laggy, look.4 and 6 again.

So we have an issue with 4 and 6.Definitely, unless the spark plugs are faulty on 4 and 6.

Another thing I wanted to check is the cam deviation.to see if there was something wrong with the timing.

Yeah that's too much.

And from this I could see on the live data that on bank 2 it was trying to deviate the timing by nearly 22 degrees on the exhaust and intake side.Now what this means is that the cam variator on the end of the camshaft is trying to slow down or speed up the timing by a certain degree.This is how variable valve timing works.Sometimes it will slow the camshaft down to keep the valves open for a longer period of time.Therefore sucking in more air and on the exhaust side letting more air out.But on the GT3 RS it should only deviate the values

by a maximum of plus or minus six degrees and on our one it's nearly hitting 22 degrees.So something has got to be wrong with the timing when I timed up the engine for it to try and adjust it so much when we're revving the car.

All good, all good, good.

So it's exhaust, Camshaft deviation was trying to go really loads and when it the others were fine from what I seen then Exhaust camshaft deviation was trying to do a lot of deviating went up 14 And we were unsure about that exhaust camshaft Exhaust camshaft is over out of timing.So when we put that thing back on it, it's either moved or One of the rockers is not in the right place or it's just damaged and we need an exhaust camshaft Let's get it out.Come on rapid Hey Liam, what's the time?

Oh hey, Matthew, one second.I'll get the timer for you, my guy.The time is...10 past 3.

So now we're taking the engine out again for the second time.Because we suspect that maybe the timing has moved, especially on the exhaust side, or we have a problem with that exhaust camshaft.Luckily, we're able to get it out a lot quicker than the first time.

Engine's out.How long?We started at ten past three.

Half an hour.It is literally still warm.Not a problem.Right, hopefully we don't have to do that again.Let's see if there's any obvious signs on this side of why the cam is not working right.With the engine out, I now need to get the rocker cover off the right -hand side of the car.

engine where we're having the issues So it's the exact same case as before holding the cams down and then undoing all of the bolts And once we got that rocker cover off there was nothing I could see which was obvious Causing any issues that's unless the timings move what we need to do is is get it to top dead centre and see if our timing kit fits on it.If the timing kit fits on it, that eliminates the timing aspect out of it.

Then we know it's something mechanical.

So I'm turning over the engine to get it at top dead centre so it could act like I'm re -timing the right hand side of it.Put the pin in to lock it in and now head over to the right hand side of the engine and slide on the cam locking tool.And if it does slide on easier, everything is all good.Timing's perfectly in.Right, I can't see anything obvious.Like, the timing's in.

The only thing we changed is we changed the lifter arms on the exhaust cam, but didn't change the actual exhaust cam.But for me, the exhaust cam doesn't look damaged enough to cause those sort of misfire issues.Is it TDC?done everything right and it's not like and if we'd done it wrong you'd think the other side would be wrong as well but we just copied what we did on this side over onto that side so I can only think that the exhaust cam has had its day on this side and we should change the exhaust cam and I'm kind of thinking we should just if if we can get that I kind of think we should just do the other side as well like exhaust cams both sides with the lift with the lifters then it eliminates anything then So at this point I'm deciding that we need to change the exhaust camshaft So I started removing it all but once I got it out, I really couldn't see that it was damaged enoughfor me to replace.It looked completely fine.

That exhaust cam does not look or feel damaged enough to cause a misfire for me.Like, especially if that bad.But we just called Porsche and they did say after doing this job, it should have a cam deviation reset.So variable valve timing needs to then relearn.And the only way to do that is with a Porsche tool.So I could have taken this all out for no reason when all it needs is like a little electronical reset.

So I think I'm going to put it all back in again.It only took half an hour.We'll put coolant in it this time so we can actually run it to temperature.Because apparently once you reset it, they self -learn.So I'll be shocked if it's that.There's nothing obvious there.

But I guess it was worth checking twice, especially as one of these engines are £40 ,000.I wouldn't want to risk damaging it, especially if we got something wrong.But I'm fairly happy with the timing and happy that there's no damage inside that engine.So we're going to put it back in again now and hope what Porsche say is true.After putting everything together, you plug the Porsche diagnostic tool in it and then the cam variators need to do a relearn because they adjust to the cam wear and obviously the last time the engine ran the camshafts were really worn and now we're putting in brand new ones so it may just need that adjustment put the oil cap on and we're gonna see whether we can run it up well not to temperature but just see let's see whether We can do anything with our diagnostic tool but I don't think we can.I don't know whether after a while of running it will learn or are we just going to build it all up and take it to Porsche and then get their diagnostic tool to do the relearn.

It seems mad.same action got the same result more misfiring and when we checked our diagnostic tool we could still see that the camshaft was trying to deviate way over six degrees don't like it does it what's wrong with it I wasn't feeling too hopeful about it, but as Porsche told us it needs to do that relearn procedure, I thought it's now best to build up the car, get it in one piece, take it to Porsche and they can activate that relearn procedure.But as I was building this car up, I could only say I had my doubts that that would actually work.I feel like the car should run fine.even without that relearn procedure.At least not misfire because the one thing that contradicts that is that we put a new camshaft in the left hand side along with the followers as well and we have no problem with the engine on the left hand side.

But either way we decided to build up the rest of the car and get it back on the road so we could take it to Porsche the next day.Which means doing everything.Connecting the driveshafts up, Collecting the bumpers, putting the coolant in, the anti -roll bar underneath the car, all of the under trays, and of course the wheels.And it wasn't long until the car was complete.Right, time to pull this baby out.She come in, pushed in, and she's gonna drive out of her own accord with hopefully, please, please, please, no faults, little lemon.

Come on.It don't like revving.

What happened to it?

I was like nearly had my foot to the floor trying to go backwards then.It sounds good once the engine light comes on.I don't think, I don't think it's good.

Does that count as a success?

Yeah, we've got four, five and six.

No good.This just goes all the way to seven.There's something wrong with that exhaust cam shaft.

It's almost like we need a Porsche tool to be able to set that.

Can't see it having that much effect.See like when it hits 11, the engine just cuts out.trying to retard the timing too much.It's like the timing's out.The car was still trying to deviate the timing by way over six degrees, the allowed amount, before finally jumping into a limp mode.I just can't see the Porsche relearn procedure fixing this problem.

I think it's more of a mechanical thing rather than electrical.

Tried everything.

Still trying to deviate the exhaust camshaft too much.So it's either the exhaust camshaft is out of time or it's had the engine out twice now and we've fully built up the car and we're all literally out of ideas.

But that night, Think found something.

I know what the problem is. I hope I know what the problem is. I'm that confident I had a flight tomorrow to head back to carry on work on the Bugatti Chiron and I'm that confident I've cancelled the flight and I've changed it to Monday because I think I know what the problem is.Now I think this mistake could have been avoided and it's definitely my fault to an extent unless repair manuals were made public so anyone could get a repair manual to rebuild a GT3 RS but obviously you can't unless you're a Porsche tech or you work at Porsche.Now The problem I think lies with not the camshafts but the actual variators on the end which do the deviation of the timing.After leaving the unit last night I went back and I watched all the footage to see if we've made any mistake and we had this engine out twice retimed it twice so there can't be a mistake in the timing but then there was one thing that I did actually notice which is slightly different.The camshaft variators which sit on the end of the camshaft, the thing with the cog which also variates the timing, they were different to one another.They weren't the same.

Well, when I first saw that I thought, well that's not a problem because I never removed them from the engine.I pulled the camshaft out, left the variators in place and it went back in the exact way it come out.But then I noticed something.On the left side of the engine,the thicker camshaft variator was used on the intake cam and the thinner camshaft variator is used on the exhaust cam whereas on the right hand side it was the other way around and I was thinking well how can this why that how can that be wrong because I never moved them I took them out but then I mentioned this to Matt the cameraman And he said, can you not remember Porsche actually had this car apart and then put it back together and gave it back to the customer.So they ain't going to care which variator goes in which way on that side because the car isn't going to run either way.

So I never checked the variators before they went in because I just assumed they were in the right spot.So I think and I hope that they are the wrong way round.and I'm about to find out the only issue is I've now got a speed run taking this car apart and the engine apart to have a look at the variators and I'm nearly 100 % confident that the variators are in the wrong spot on the right hand side of the engine and that is going to solve our issue This is going to be a big speed run to get the car stripped out, engine out, get the variators and put it all back in and we're 100 % banking on this is going to be right because we've cancelled our flight to go to Miami to start rebuilding the Chiron.So this has got to work.On with the speed run.This has to be it.

It literally looks like once Porsche diagnosed the problem, but then didn't honour the warranty, they just threw this car back together and gave it back to the customer.And they must have threw it back together, not bothering which way these variators go.Look at that.

Fat one on the bottom, thin one on the top.

The reason I didn't notice this to start with is because I never took them out.So I assumed they were going to be right, but then And that'll explain why that side's working and this side's not.ain't but this has been thrown back together to give back to the customer this has got to be why it's not working it has to be right let's switch these over retime it back in and start it up and hopefully hopefully this time we've gone way over our labor hours but we haven't spent any more money which is great so and it's been fun we've had so much fun taking it in and out loads of times haven't we?It's been amazing Yeah, it has been so much fun.How fast are we at taking these engines out now?We could actually have a Porsche dealership.

Literally an hour in and an hour out and I reckon it'll be back in in an hour as well.So it turns out these variators are different to the other side that we put in.So now it's just a case of taking the camshafts out once again and switching over those variators and re -timing the whole engine.

You're the reason why we have taken you out three times already.In fact, you've been out four times already because the Porsche tech took you out, put you back in, we took you back out again, put you back in, and then we took you back out again, and then put you back in, and now we took you back out again one more time before you finally put back in and it all worked.

Yeah, we're losing our minds here.But here they are, two slightly different cam variators.And if you were like me, and you just assumed that Porsche put it back correctly, then you would have just left these in the car whilst you changed the camshafts.But of course, you always have got to double check your work because if I did that in the first place I wouldn't have had to take this engine out two more times than I needed to but hopefully now after I've re -timed it all with the camshaft variators in the correct position me and Liam can put this engine back in for the last and final time before getting it back on the road and driving to Porsche where we can try and reclaim the Porsche warrantyThis has got to be it.This has got to be it.

Third time's a charm.The only reason it wouldn't be it is if we've made a stupid mistake because we did that insanely fast.Please work.We're going to leave it to idle a bit before we do anything.So far, no light.

And we had a little rev. That sounds good.

It's got to be working.No lights.No lights on the dash.It was just that stupid thing.It was just a stupid thing, man. I don't know it's still like we still like anything could happen because you just never know But it does sound really good even without stock exhaust the exhaust sounds way better finally everything was working and the restmore lights on the dash we could now actually get the wheels back on put all the trims in take this for its first test drive and even with all the hassle it's given us I still really like the look of this GT3 RS let's just hope now it's gonna run faultless The next morning and the drive to Porsche to get our warranty back.

Hopefully it passes the 111 point inspection.It needs alignment.It needs air con gas.It needs an MOT.It needs the inspection.And if it passes all four of them, we get our warranty back and we have a completely dialled in Porsche.

And you would not believe the price that I got it for.And all the parts price that we paid for to get this back on the road.As long as this car makes it to Porsche now, we're absolutely golden.Come on.Off we go.There's no aircon.

now when this car gets to Porsche it will undergo a hundred and eleven point inspection where a technician will completely check over the car to make sure it's a hundred percent and if it passes we will gain Porsche approved warranty which means if we have any more issues with the car it'll be all covered under Porsche's warranty scheme but we've got to pass this inspection first here we go So he's driving, the tracking is really out, but we're getting that fixed.But unfortunately the problems didn't end there.

This car, it's not the hose I thought it was.

If you're looking at the car, it looks like it's coming from quite far back.It's coming from really far back.

Just when we think we're driving this car to Porsche and getting it back on the road for the first time since it had the engine issue, it's decided to burst a cooler pipe.So we have no option but to trailer the car back to the workshop again.We need to find exactly where this leak is coming from.Luckily just the hose has popped off so it could just be a quick fix With that coolant hose back on it isn't just a case of pouring coolant back in the expansion tank we do have to vacuum fill the cooling system but once we've done that now this is the time we get back on the road surely this car has nearly beat us but a lesson learned for this build has been double and triple check the work because one small thing like a coolant pipe can throw you back hours on a build journey she's finally on the road and we're at Porsche ready for our 111 point inspection and our tracking and our air con and our MOT.We're about to find out whether we've got any chance of getting our warranty back with the little lemon.In she goes into Porsche and we'll pick her back up at the end of the day.

Off we go.

So is our work going to be good enough for Porsche?I guess we're going to find out after they've completed their 111 point inspection.And whilst we wait, we went off to do what any Porsche owner would do.Finally, we get the phone call at the end of the day to say that the Porsche is ready for collection.And this is a big moment for us now.Can we get the warranty back?

The lemon is out.

And the good news is no more fault codes on the dash at all.It's had four wheel alignment.It's had air con, everything it needs.And we've got our inspection back.it is looking really really good but we're not going to be getting our warranty back today for now just yet now one of the main reasons is why we can't get the warranty back just for now you have to own the car for over 90 days to get the warranty back on the car so you need to provide a log book and everything like that i haven't owned this car for over 90 days and that's to stop traders buying the car doing what we did taking it in there getting the warranty and then selling it with Porsche approved warranty so We need 90 days and then we could get the warranty on top of that the windscreen here has a chip in it But that's not enough to void our warranty warranty claim so that is actually fine now on the front we've got a little cross for axle joints now there was a play in one of the wheels on the front they suspect it to be a wheel bearing and that needs to be fixed so we have brake pads we got a cross for which was on the front the brake pads are all rusty and they're cracking and not been used in ages so they want them replacing before they honour the warranty.The engine has mist of oil and some coolant marks, but that's because obviously when we filled it up and we've got coolant on there, they said if that dries out and the car runs in the ramp with no mist of oil, it'll pass, which it will.

And there's one more, last one, which was you need to have no unusual noise or vibration.and we have a rattle from the roll cage that on the roll cage well this roll cage we see it's been wrapped yellow it's not actually that original color and what they've said is the bolts at the back whoever's took it out put the bolts back in the wrong way and and they think it's causing it to rattle.So really, really small fixes.And once that's all done, we could get a Porsche approved warranty, and we could do whatever the hell we want to do it, and we've got warranty.Good news.

But what about the mileage discrepancy and why this car had its warranty void in the first place?

Now because it's a bit of a weird one obviously the previous owner must have argued it but because I'm now a new owner and I'm trying to regain warranty and the car is fixed then we can now set up an argument with Porsche to say that like that's nothing that we've done ourselves so they can actually look into that and flag it up and then they the guys here are really optimistic that we should be able to get that wiped off and claim our royalty back now that the car is all fixed but yeah it's a bit of a weird one because apparently the engine was running for a longer time than the mileage clock has recognized so with all that being done and all the work we've done to it was this build actually worth the money i think this car would be worth with the mileage and the age around £135 ,000 to £140 ,000 and I bought the lemon for £87 ,000 and it cost us around £5 ,000 for all the parts to fix it.Which brings the cost to £92 ,000 plus all the labour we spent on it, which I still think is a really good result.What a result!We got there in the end.Thanks so much for watching this video.If you enjoyed it, hit the subscribe button, hit that thumbs up button and I'll see you in the next video.

Peace out.