I FIXED MY BUGATTI VEYRON FOR $3 THEN DROVE IT

I bought this repossessed Bugatti Veyron with supposedly a broken gearbox.

Nothing happens.If I try to go into drive, nothing happens.

But we managed to solve the problem with just a tiny fuse.and that fuse was for the hydraulic gearbox pump and we all know fuses don't just end up like that on their own there's got to be a problem further down the line and also the car still has a misfire along with loads of other problems and it's going to get even harder now because Bugatti won't sell us any parts for this car unless it's with them okay so that fuse is fine at the minute and every time we open the door We can hear the pump building up pressure, and everything is actually working as it should, but I don't think it's gonna be long until that fuse either goes again or it burns out.There's gotta be a problem further down the line.There's gotta be something drawing amps, and what that is doing is the pump is building up the pressure, and then it should have accumulators which hold the pressure, and that allows you to shift gear, and the pump shouldn't recoup, shouldn't, reactivate until it's dropped below a certain bar of pressure.So before I test it out on the Autel and see exactly how much pressure that pump's holding and whether it's losing it, I'm going to take off this quarter panel because we might be able to visually see the pump.So if we do a visual inspection first and if nothing's visually wrong, then we'll plug the Autel in and we'll see if we can see it losing pressure.

First step, let's get this off because we should be able to access the pump behind it.Let's go.Now the strange thing that I found out is that during a service on the Bugatti Veyrons, each yearactually replace the gearbox pump which says to me it must be a weak part of the car I've never heard of anyone replacing any pumps each year on a service and judging by the rest of this car I highly doubt this one's been serviced Now that the quarter panel's off, we're one step closer to accessing all the pumps and the filters for the gearbox.

Okay, quarter's off.It's given us way better access to all this stuff.

The thing is, I can't see the gearbox pump yet.We can only see, we can see math sensors.To get to the gearbox pump, We've got to get behind this.

So, that is the next stage.

I'm hoping that there's something visually wrong with the pump and that would explain why the fuse was melted in that way.But to access it, I've got to remove the body panel and then this piece of carbon which is actually part of the rear frame.And now, we can see it all.This could be our issue because it's very damp here, isn't it?All this is wet and that should be bone dry.Where is it coming from?

And where is it leaking from?Actually, I was expecting to see it.Is it just weeping out of that, do you think?To make sure there was no leaks, first, I cleaned everything with brake cleaner.And then I was going to go around, open the door again to activate the gearbox pump, and then was going to check to see if there was any leaks.But we didn't see anything apart from this.

The wire is exposed all here, look.

The wire going to the gearbox pump did have some breaks in it.

Next step then, there's nothing obvious.There's nothing obvious.

obvious really apart from that split in the wire on the pump so what I need to do now is see whether it is losing pressure rapidly so we'll plug the Autel inI'll get a live data and see if it's losing pressure.Because if it's not losing pressure, there's not really any reason to change a load of the stuff.But I do want to get that pump out and at least service it.But yeah, sometimes if it ain't broke, don't fix it.so nothing obvious yet but something must be causing that pump to overwork or stay on for too long so what i wanted to check is to see whether the gearbox is holding pressure because if it was dropping then the pump would have to keep working to build up that pressure and i could check this with the auto okay so we've got pressure we've got 49 bar is that 49 bar of pressure.

Now I think these are the pressures that are held in each accumulator and what we're looking for is if they drop dramatically and I also want to see at what point does the pump kick in to build back up that pressure.

So 48 bar, 50 bar.

Let's see when the pump kicks in.I'm now going to reach over to put my foot on the brake and select a gear because it uses the pressure to select the gears so we should see a pressure drop.Park, 50 bar, park, Neutral and the pressure was only going down very slightly after each gear shift.It's doing alright It seemed okay and 47 bar 46 But when does the pump kick back in 45 44 bar and then the pump kicks back in to build up the pressure 44 bar and then the pump kicks in and every shift I did it lost about 1 .5 but that's normal And the only gearbox I know which is Fairly similar to this is the SVDwhich uses solenoids to change gear as well, and also needs oil pressure.And I know Ricky at RE Performance knows these cars inside out, so I gave him a call.

You'll be able to help with this because we figured it out, it's literally, they're basically the same as a Gallardo, we think.

So, this gearbox, when i turn the ignition on and the pump and the pump kicks in i can see how much pressure the gearbox is holding what was it 50 50 about 50 yeah yeah it's on about 55 bar the pump kicks in around 44 every time it drops to 44 bar on this car yes which i think is similar to a gardo um yeah but when that pump goes and i'm sitting here with the ignition on the pressure does slowly creep down.Not loads, but it does slowly creep down.Is that normal or should it hold complete pressure?

Right, here we go.

So Ricky has told us to run the car and switch the gears until the pressure drops and the pump kicks in.And after the pump kicks in, the gearbox should hold pressure for around two minutes before the pump has to kick in again.And that's what we're testing now.

There's the pump going.

And the pressure actually held for longer than two minutes.So really still no answers as to why that fuse Completely melted because everything still looks good.

We're generally looking good Emma.

I don't want to mess with it if it's not broken I don't think we'll know until it starts driving.

We should probably check the oil and stuff engine oil like we could do an engine oil service and like the air filter was definitely doing but gearbox wise i think we should leave it because we won't know if i mess with it and cause a problem we don't know whether that's going to be the problem i've caused or was that like it before so could it really have just been a fuse i guess we'll have to wait to drive it to find out but there were other faults remember this car had an engine light on due to a misfire okay we still have misfires mainly And the rest are all random misfires.Because the way this car detects misfires is from the crank sensor.But it's 16 the one I'm worried about.that's cylinder 16 so volkswagen coil packs are rubbish and i know that from a volkswagen lupo so it could be a bad coil but the best way to test that is pull the coil out of 16 put it in 15 and see if we get the malfunction on another cylinder guess that's the next job before we start the radiator situation and probably drive it exciting So to change the coil pack over from 16 onto cylinder 15, we first need to access them.Which means we need to take off a fair amount of stuff.And we think cylinder 16 is on the left hand side.

First thing off is the air filter.This needs replacing, but I'm not paying big out of your prices to have it replaced.

But that is an odd looking filter, isn't it?

There's no doubt that thiscar needs a service, which we'll get on to.For now, let's just try and solve the faults.And to access these coil packs, it looks like this rear quarter is going to come off as well.And unlike Alex's Persport, these rear quarters are made out of aluminium, which explains why the Veyron is a little heavier than the Chiron.Now that the quarter's off, I can undo the clamps on the MAF sensors and lift out the air filter housing.

Next up I've got to start removing the bottom housing of the intake scoops which means a few coolant pipes run through it which need to come out, a few bolts then we can lift it out and we can nearly see the coil packs.Next off is the engine cover.All this I think I'm going to get painted and refurbished and whilst I'm doing this on the left side my dad's also dismantling the right side just in case we need to switch anything over there as well.Next off is the charge cooler and we're getting one step closer to the coil packs.The next thing I've got to remove is the frame which holds the charge cooler and once that's removed I should gain access to them.I dread to think what the labour cost would be from Bugatti and changing all your spark plugs.

But with all that removed eventually I can get the coil packs out which are of course in charge of sending the power to the spark plug.So it's pretty important that it works.Right, 15 is going to go into 16 now.There's no visual problems, but we'll see.And if it stays on 16, then we're going to look at the spark plug.And then if it ain't the spark plug, then we have something wrong with the ECU going on, which sends the signal to these.

or something else like an injector by switching these two cores over we should then be able to pinpoint the problem but as i said if this doesn't change anything it could be a spark plug or completely something different to run the car i've got to make sure i put it all back together now and i'm really hoping i see the misfire bounce onto cylinder 15 instead so first thing we do is just clear the codeto make sure we don't run it and then I see cylinder 16 misfire again so we're just gonna clear the codes should be back to normal start it up see if it goes to 15 that's what we're hoping for okay so no faults let's start it up see if it runs terrible and then hopefully it's 15 because that would be so easy if it was here we go Cylinder 16 misfire is still there and we've got random cylinder misfires all coming from the left side of the engine.

All on this side, innit?

10, 11, 16, 13, 12, 9, 14.None on that side, all on this side.So could it be to do with that?Right, so all the misfires, just random multiple cylinder misfire, and they're all coming from this side now.It's not pinpointing onto one coil pack.So the coil packs could be okay, but this computer here sends the signal to the ECUs of when to fire, down to the coil packs of when to fire.

So there's one on each side, and we're gonna transfer them over and see if it then becomes onto that side.

And if it does, we've gotta look for one of them.

So we're using the same technique here as what we used on the coil pack, but now we're hoping to see the misfires jump from the left bank to the right bank.bank.This little computer here is called the ion computer I believe.And that's in charge of sending the power down to the coil packs.And from what I remember, a technician who worked on Mark's Bugatti said that he had a misfire due to one of these being faulty.

It has got a misfire, which we diagnosed down to an ion control module.

So could it be a common issue?Well, I guess we're about to find out if that's the case once we run it again with these switched over.

Okay, that's plugged into that side, that's plugged into that side.

Let's see if the misfire moves over to that side.I don't know at this point whether I want it to or not.knowing that that is $9 ,000.No faults, no faults.So, so what, what?How's that cured it?

Well, there's good news and bad news.There's no faults anymore, but we haven't fixed anything.So, we've just messed with stuff.So, but, every time we started it, it's been warm now.So I think we've got to let it cool down, and then we'll get it to do the cold start again, because that really, like, exaggerated the misfire.But, like, we had no engine light, nothing.

But we haven't done anything, we haven't changed anything.So, I don't like it when it fixes and we haven't fixed anything.Hmm.all the faults still remain a mystery.Could it be that this car just really needs a good service?Everything just seems intermittent.

So for now, we're just putting everything back together before jumping on to the next thing.One thing I do want to do which is on that gearbox point We saw that frayed wire and I'm just worried why that wire is frayed There's potential that if the plastic surrounding the wire has got really hot It could be really brittle and the only way for me to access that is to remove the pump and to remove the pump I've got to take off the accumulator on top of the gearbox oil tank first safety Accumulator and now the gearbox pump can finally come out.

Well, I think we found the issue Oh, look at all that.It's rock -hard.

All that is rock -hard from heat The plastic casing covering over the wire was completely perished and just dropping off.Well, there's the problem Again, this is all caused from heat.So these wires must have been getting pretty hot, but we still don't know why.Has this pump just completely worn and it's working harder than it should?Or is something causing it to stay on for way too long?

It's not fully exposed all the way up.

I've never seen that on any car we've done.

And that is used on an Audi A5.to make its roof go on and off and it didn't take long for me to find what other car this pump is used on and none of which it's used for a gearbox pump so is it fit for purpose the gearbox pump on the Bugatti turns on every single time you open the door and every time it drops pressure whereas if that pump's used to take a roof off and on then that's not going to be used as often which could be the reasonwhy Bugatti change this pump every single year.Now, I've ordered one of those pumps, but until that turns up, for now, I'm just going to run some electrical tape around the bare wires to prevent them from shorting out when I put this one back in.Because I want to know how this car behaves when we start driving it and whether all those faults actually come back.

I've put tape on and then added even more.

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Looking good.

Still selects.And now we're gonna get a proper cold start.There's no engine light, so there's no codes.So as far as it's aware of, it's got no misfire, but it's just a cold start, innit?But I don't know, I've never heard one cold start before.So is that just a normal thing?

Like, does it take a while to go?Is it gonna get better as we get through the fuel and the heat cycle?Yeah, it's fine now.It's all still a mystery.I guess I could have just got an insane deal on this Bugatti after all.But I guess we won't know the true extent of the problems until I take it for its first drive.

But before we do that, I've still got another fault to fix.

We've got that leaky radiator on the front, which I think means I've got to fix it.

So, and to fix it, I've got to get to it, which I think I've got to take off the front bumper to do it.So, I think I'm going to take Headlights out to get to the bumper.I don't think it comes out apart the same way that she run does if I'm looking at it I'm just gonna attack it and then hopefully no other hidden surprises under it But I can see it's definitely been a part before if you look at like there's a bolt there Which ain't the same bolt is that one there and in the headlights?

It's like

bolts missing all over the place.So we'll take it all apart, put all the right bolts back in, and hopefully we can fix this rad.

Let's go.

When the Bugatti was first dropped off to me, it always had a coolant line on the dash.And we discovered there was a separate coolant tank underneath the intake, which was for the charge cooling, which cools the turbos.But when I moved the Bugatti out of my garage, I noticed that there was coolant on the floor.So there must be a leak.And we think it's coming from the front radiator.So to get to it, I've got to remove everything on the front.

First thing that's got to come off are the window wipers.Then, just to make it easier for us, I'm going to remove the bonnet.After that, all the storage in the middle is going to come out.And we still can't see the radiator, so it looks like the front bumper is going to have to come off.To get the bumper out, I've got to remove the headlights.Once these headlights are out, I can then see the bolts which hold the bumper in place.

So both of them are out, out come the bolts, then off comes the bumper.

That was a lot of nothing, wasn't it?

No electrics.Yeah.I like it.Yeah, but it's probably more expensive because of that, isn't it?

The less you get, the more expensive it is.That's really light as well.

But even with that front bumper off, it looks like getting to this radiator isn't going to be as easy as I first thought.

It looks like this hatch here, you take this hatch out and then you unclip the radiator and then it all lifts up out the top here.

But I'm just looking, it does look like this.

is going to block it and this is part of the wing so I may have to take the wings off as well.

I started unbolting that hatch but it still doesn't seem I can get to it so the wings have got to come off.I can get the right hand side wing off no problem because the door's opening enough for me to get the bolts at the back of it but the right hand side I couldn't quite get to a few bolts so I'm gonna have to lower it down and thisis really the first drive.

Right, first drive.We've got no engine light, got coolant light, but that's what we're trying to fix.

The car selected reverse, no problem, and started rolling backwards.This could be good after all.How was the first drive?

Great, really smooth.Oh, that looks bubble cool, doesn't it?It's running so much smoother.

And now that the Bugatti is off the ramp, I can access the bolt on the inside of the door.Loosen that off and then eventually I can lift off the front wing.But it still doesn't look like I'm going to be able to get that front radiator out.Okay, in an ideal situation, what I would do now is remove this top panel and I'll lift the radiator out but I cannot get this radiator to move because it's attached to that radiator and that radiator is attached to the fans and the fans are at the back and the things that are blocking the fans are these carbon bits but to remove the carbon bits you've got to remove the radiators before you get to the carbon bits I can't remove the radiators because I can't get this off so to get this off I've got to actually unbolt it from the chassis here Which means we're moving all the suspension, the arms, the steering rack, everything there to get this forward.So what I'm trying to do is, I'm trying to get these rads off, so...I could see if I could actually get to the bolt on the side of the rad to separate these two, but then I still don't think that this radiator is going to lift up because this is blocking it.

No matter what I did, I couldn't find a way to access this front radiator and get it out without removing the entire front end.And I just don't think the lift is going to work.big enough to warrant doing that.So what I'm going to do now is drain the coolant out of that radiator by removing the bottom hose here and the top hose.Then we're going to run a pressure test.What we want to try and do now, I've got a smoke tester.

I'm going to blow smoke in there and hopefully it's going to find a way out.And when it finds its way out, we should know where the leak is.And if we mark the leak with a little bit of pen, We need to see if we can fix it.I don't know if this is going to work.I hope it does, otherwise we've got to take the whole front end off.So here's the smoke tester, which is going to blow smoke down through the radiator.

Then if we've got a hole, we should see the smoke coming out of that hole.But here goes nothing.To be honest, I think the hole was so small, it was even difficult to see the smoke.It must just be a tiny pinhole from a stone.

I think it's such a tiny hole.It's such a tiny little hole.

And now I've got to find a way of fixing that little hole.When exposed to air and high temperatures at the leak point, the chemical components bind together and surround the material, forming a solid plug that repairs the hole.It is designed for permanent repairs to radiators, hoses, heater cores, water pump gaskets, without requiring flushing or draining the system.Rad world is a crazy move on a Bugatti, but I'm down.Radwell side effects include clogging heater cores.Well, this ain't gonna go for a heater core because it's turbo cooling.

Clogging radiator tubes, don't worry about that.Water passages, don't worry about that.Cabin heat, don't worry about that.And potential engine overheating due to restricted coolant flow.Don't know, do you know if you read the, you shouldn't read the side effects, should you?

No, just.

Should, because then it's in your mind.

Yeah, exactly, because if we didn't know the side effects, we wouldn't be worried.

We wouldn't be worried.it Yeah, yeah, I'm down for Radworld in that it's such a small leak Okay, this is something that I wouldn't usually do but being that the leak is so small We're gonna actually give it a go.What's the worst that could happen?The Radworld goes in the system and it works its way through the radiator until it finds a hole Once it finds that hole, the Radwell sort of sits there and then goes hard, creating a permanent repair.

Here we go.So that's engine, this is charge cooling.So this circulates through the radiator at the front, through these charge coolers.

Come on, we can do this.

If we've solved this with some stop leak and a fuse, this is the best bar in the world.

Again, if this doesn't work, we can just flush out the radiators and the cooling system and get that radiator out to do a proper repair.But being that that hole is so small, I really think this might actually work, especially how we're grabbing it now before that leak gets any worse.

Here we go, we're going to run it and keep it going through and we're going to go to the front and we'll see if it starts seeping out.

In order for the Radwell to work, it's got to get up to temperature.So we let it run for a little while in hopes that it'd seal the leak.

All dry at the minute, but we need to get hot.

And as time went by and the temperature went up, things were looking good to be honest.

How are we looking?

It's alright to me. I can't see anything obvious yet.

Hopefully it's sorted.The car was running at temperature for a long while.I actually think that might have cured it.Okay, this is going to be the true test now.We've put fuel in it, we've put 99 Ron fuel in it, we've got the rad seal in, we've got the fuse in, we've fixed everything we think needs fixing, and I'm hoping once we take it for a little drive around the sort of courtyard, everything works.And if everything works, we can start looking at servicing the car.

because then we know it should be faultless and then run even better once we start to service it.So, this is going to be the first time driving a Bugatti Veyron and it looks like this.Didn't imagine it to look like this, but at this point we don't know what happens.

So, let's get in and let's drive it.

So, this is it.The first time ever driving a Veyron.

No, this really is a big moment, okay?A properly, properly big moment.Here we go.

It seems only five minutes ago, I got to drive Alex's Chiron, but this one's going to feel a whole lot more special, because it's mine.

Not just the best car that's ever been made, but very possibly the best car we'll see in our lifetime.

Can't see anything out there.No reverse camera, no parking sensors.

I never thought I'd drive a Veyron, let alone own one.So this moment is huge.And from the moment I picked up this car, I was expecting the worst.But the fact that this is even driving after a few minor fixes is amazing.But I don't think that's going to be the end of it.For now, let's enjoy the first drive.

Despite the engine light, coming back on, the car was actually running and driving.

What an experience.And then we're going to have to make it, make it my own a bit.Look at that, that looks crazy, doesn't it?By an amazing first drive, all those problems now come back to haunt me.

No, no, it went into gear, but now it's all flashing every light on the dash.

The transmission light and the engine light were now back on.After I restarted the car, I heard the gearbox pump start up, but it never switched off.Almost like it built up too much pressure.because summat's telling it to keep pumping so it's either got to be the pressure sensor or summat's stuck or pressure relief or summat because summat's telling that pump to keep pumping when it doesn't need to it could even be a sticky relay which is sticking on and overpowering the pump the only good thing is that the car still goes into gear and still moves but this would explain the problem of how that fuse actually burnt out if that pump is staying stuck on The gearbox pump is just stuck on.It's self -destruct.Yeah, it's at 72 bar.

It's a good defuse.Where?

Yeah, here, this one, this one, this one.

Top, this one here, this top one here.Oh, it's gone off.

It's 69 bar, that fifth there.The gearbox was still holding pressure.It was just that the pump was getting stuck on and building up too much pressure.But when I cleared the codes...There, there.

That's odd, isn't it?

The car went back.to working as normal again, so something ain't right.It's like it just got stuck on.On top of that, all the multiple cylinder misfire codes all come back.So the only place I think we should start first is just by servicing this car, which is gonna be a problem in itself.As many of you may know, Bugatti charged over $20 ,000 for an oil service, and we're gonna have to do more than that.

Right now, We're taking out all the spark plugs with plans to replace the spark plugs and the coil packs.But we're going to have to cross -reference all of these parts when we get them out because we know Bugatti are not going to sell them to us.Dirty girl.

Yes, that is NGK Volkswagen Audi.

The good news is that the spark plugs look pretty bad.A lot of carbon build up on every single one that we pulled out of the engine.And although they might not be causing the misfire, they're certainly not helping it.And luckily, these are just generic NGK spark plugs.So they're going to be fairly easy to just cross -reference.And eventually, me and my dad managed to remove all 16 of these spark plugs.

And it's just going to be the case now on cross -referencing the spark plugs and the coil packs as well, as I'd like to eliminate everything.

Okay.

Before we go underneath and drain all the oil out, there's more stuff I want to do on top and this is all the gearbox stuff.So there's accumulators, there's pumps and we know we had that issue with the pump.But I think the pump's actually fine.I want to replace it anyway so it just literally solves everything.So we're going to get the pump off, the accumulators out, there's filters in here.I think there's actually three filters here and then there's another one underneath.

in order for us to know what they're off and how we're gonna get them I've got to take them out first I don't know whether loads of oil is gonna fly out of it because I'm not draining the oil but I guess we'll figure that out so accumulator off first I'm gonna see whether we can cross -reference all of it once we get it off Let's go.

First step, unscrew the accumulator.

One accumulator out.Only markings on it is that.

No brand or anything.

Once that accumulator is out of the way, I can now access the other one which is sat next to it.And that one unscrews as well.I don't see any purpose in actually replacing the accumulators because they do seem to work.And I'm unsure whether Bugatti actually changed them during the service.But what I do know is that they changed the gearbox pump.Which is what we've got out again now.

So far, so good.Next step are all the filters in the gearbox, and there's a lot.Starting off with the top one here.I've undone the plug.Then I have to slide in a bolt to be able to pull out this tiny filter, which is like a metal one.I'm pretty sure we'll be able to source this filter or even get one made.

Next step, another gearbox filter below it.You can already tell how important it is for the gearbox fluid to be clean, just by the amount of filters that's there.You think PAL is a Russian company?Yeah, if I did my research right, I think PAL is a Russian company.But I could be wrong.The good news is it's stamped with a part number and the logo of the company that made it.

So I don't think we'll have any problems finding that.And there's still another filter to go.Unbolt the housing to it and then you can see it just slid in that hole there.And with all those filters, of course, there's a lot of fluid.I slide in a bolt into the filter which allows me to pull it out, and it's another metal one.Again, I think probably made by someone.

same company.That's most of the filters out of the tank.Time to take the car in the air because we're still not finished with them.Time to find the drain bung for the gearbox oil.That way I can get all the fluid out of it and it's right at the bottom of the tank.I need to make sure I capture all of the oil so I know exactly how much I need to put back in.

Oh, is she fired out?You did get it on you as well.Look how clean that looks.It's like caramel.Looks like it's had a service, whereas the engine didn't.

Maybe that's one of the first things they did to try and fix the gearbox issue, is they serviced it.

Maybe they serviced it, but that pump wasn't serviced, was it?Unless they just changed the oil, but that oil is well clean.We're still not done with the gearbox.More fluid needs to come out of it.Half of this car's weight must be in fluid.There's another drain plug here on the gearbox and even more oil come out of that.

And then another one here.But not much came out of this one, but it looked to be a filter housing.So we undid the bolts for that and out dropped another filter.Again, just showing the importance on how clean this gearbox fluid actually has to be.Look at it again for us.It's got some part numbers and a company on it.

And then finally, there was one more drain bulb.

Right, this is how much oil come out the gearbox.

And supposedly, it's 15 liters in the gearbox and we got out 13 and a bit.So we're about there.So that's how much we need to replace.We need to find out what oil grade it is, which I'm sure we can find out.But that's the gearbox pretty much done with.Next up, engine oil.

And if you thought there was a lot of gearbox oil, here we go with the engine.Apparently, there's 16 sump plugs.Out comes one, and not much fluid came out of that.So we did another five more.

Not as good as the gearbox.

Yeah, that is...This is only on, like, 24 ,000 miles, and that's probably 24 ,000 miles worth.And you can already tell by how dark the oil actually is in the engine that it's pretty old and it probably hasn't been changed in a while, if ever.

Next up, the oil filter.

Look at the state of that oil filter.But that is seeing some heat through that.another filter we've got to find and this one's a big one luckily no metal in it though but still we've got more drain plugs that we need to unscrew to get all of this oil out there's a lot but i still don't think this is worth anywhere near 20 grand to service oh there's the plug it's stuck somewhere but i guess if you've got a Bugatti then you pay Bugatti prices And not to mention, to get to all of these sump plugs, we would have had to take it off the undertray as well.So there is still a fair amount of labour just to get to these plugs.But not 20 grand's worth.And the last thing I'm doing here is the Haldex.

Not much in that, is there?

Which is almost like a separate gearbox, but for the front wheels.This looks pretty similar to what they put in the Aldi's so I think we'll be able to find this all of this I've now got to figure out where we can get from not from Bugatti sowe've got to Google every bit of number, cross -reference every part.Luckily, there's all brands on it.So there's Corelon, there's PAL, there's whatever that is.Got to get it all and put it all back in and she should drive as good as new afterwards, we hope.

So we've made some good progress, but we still can't really get to the bottom of all these faults.But hopefully, after we've sourced all these parts and done the service, I will finally have a working and running Bugatti Veyron.Thanks so much for watching this video.If you enjoyed it, hit that subscribe button, hit that thumbs up button and I'll see you in the next video.

You need to get hot off.I think you need to get hot off.

What are you lot doing?